{"id":16500,"date":"2018-01-21T08:00:58","date_gmt":"2018-01-21T07:00:58","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/4000mil.se\/?p=16500"},"modified":"2023-11-18T21:43:44","modified_gmt":"2023-11-18T20:43:44","slug":"vinales-kuba","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/4000mil.se\/index.php\/vinales-kuba\/","title":{"rendered":"Vinales – kan Kuba blir mer ”the real thing”?"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

\u00c5sikterna g\u00e5r is\u00e4r om Vinales.
-F\u00f6r turistiskt!
-Underbart vackert!
Men har man nu velat bes\u00f6ka en plats i bortemot 20 \u00e5r, s\u00e5 \u00e5ker man ju hur som haver. S\u00e5 f\u00e5r man sj\u00e4lv se hur det egentligen \u00e4r.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vi har 3 heldagar p\u00e5 Kuba. En dag \u00e4r vikt \u00e5t Havanna f\u00f6rst\u00e5s, men sedan l\u00e4gger vi de andra tv\u00e5 p\u00e5 att \u00e5ka de 18 milen v\u00e4sterut till Vinales.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Vinales \u00e4r Kubas tobaksdistrikt. En vacker gr\u00f6nskande och b\u00f6rdig dal med sockertoppsberg i fonden.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

-Det ser ut lite som Yangshuo i Kina, s\u00e4ger vi och f\u00e5r medh\u00e5ll av v\u00e5r guide. Ja, detta landskap \u00e5terfinns bara i Kina och h\u00e4r.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Med v\u00e5rt korta tid till f\u00f6rfogande v\u00e4ljer vi en guidad tv\u00e5dagarstur med h\u00e4mtning och l\u00e4mning i Havanna. Vi har fr\u00e5gat Trippan om r\u00e5d och sp\u00e5ren leder till Discover Vinales<\/a>, ett touringf\u00f6retag med idel 5-or i betyg.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

V\u00e4l p\u00e5 plats f\u00e5r vi f\u00f6rklarat f\u00f6r oss. Discover Vinales<\/a> \u00e4r unikt. P\u00e5 Kuba \u00e4r ju allt statligt (f\u00f6rst\u00e5s ju, det \u00e4r bara det att man \u00e4r s\u00e5 van vid marknadsekonomi att man inte kan t\u00e4nka om, bara s\u00e5 d\u00e4r), men nu har detta alldeles privata f\u00f6retag startat. Verksamhetens legitimitet skulle kunna ifr\u00e5gas\u00e4ttas av myndigheterna, men s\u00e5 har \u00e4nnu ej skett. Havanna orkar inte riktigt engageras sig i en lokal f\u00f6reteelse ute p\u00e5 landet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Vi blir upph\u00e4mtade av en prima Mercedes fr\u00e5n 1982. Det ing\u00e5r visst en bes\u00f6k i en orkid\u00e9tr\u00e4dg\u00e5rd l\u00e4ngs v\u00e4gen. V\u00e5r trevliga chauff\u00f6r snackar in oss i en guidad rundvisning p\u00e5 tyska. Bara att le och h\u00e4ng med!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

V\u00e4l p\u00e5 plats i Vinales ansluter v\u00e5r guide, Elias. Elias pratar den b\u00e4sta engelskan vi hittar p\u00e5 Kuba. Nej han har aldrig varit utanf\u00f6r Kubas gr\u00e4nser, men plockat upp spr\u00e5ket \u00e4nd\u00e5. Han \u00e4r musiker ocks\u00e5, spelar i band och k\u00e4nner och highfivar ALLA i Vinales. Och den h\u00e4r dalen \u00e4r det vackraste han vet p\u00e5 jorden!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Vi har som sagt k\u00f6pt ett paket rakt av. Vi \u00e4r n\u00e5got garvade r\u00e4var \u00e4nd\u00e5 p\u00e5 touringfronten, vet hur det kan vara och \u00e4r fast beslutna att bara h\u00e4nga med h\u00e4r och se vad som f\u00f6rberetts \u00e5t oss. Kommer det att bli k\u00f6pstopp med provision \u00e5t guider och chauff\u00f6rer, kommer det att bli vallning och massturism? Man f\u00e5r helt enkelt se och ta det som det kommer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Lite otur med v\u00e4dret har vi. Dag 1 \u00e4r molnig och med lite kyla i luften. Dag 2 startar med regn, men spricker snart nog upp i str\u00e5lande sol.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Och vi m\u00e5ste s\u00e4ga \u00e4nd\u00e5 att detta \u00e4r en riktigt, riktigt v\u00e4lgjord och upplevelsefylld tur. Om Vinales \u00e4r turistiskt s\u00e5 m\u00e4rker vi egentligen bara detta p\u00e5 souvenirgatan och utanf\u00f6r Wi-fi-kortsbutiken i stan p\u00e5 kv\u00e4llen. V\u00e5r tur g\u00e5r helt och totalt bortanf\u00f6r varje ansats till allfarv\u00e4g.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Vi g\u00f6r en ridtur i en pastoral del av Vinalesdalen. M\u00f6ter lantbrukare och boskap l\u00e4ngs v\u00e4gen. Man nickar och lyfter p\u00e5 hatten.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vi \u00e5ker zipline \u00f6ver Vinales tr\u00e4dtoppar till en pris som m\u00e5ste vara en tiondel av vad samma aktivitet skulle kostat i Europa och utan andra bes\u00f6kare \u00e4n vi och ett till, tyskt par p\u00e5 hela anl\u00e4ggningen! Jag hade f\u00f6rst lyckats gl\u00f6mma (f\u00f6rtr\u00e4nga!) att detta ingick i min f\u00f6rbokade tur. Och sedan insett det av mitt utskrivna mejl p\u00e5 flyget \u00f6ver, hunnit noja lite natten innan. Men allts\u00e5, en helt fantastisk grej att g\u00f6ra. Kolla filmen, s\u00e5 \u00e4r det uppenbart hur glad och n\u00f6jd jag \u00e4r efter\u00e5t.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ziplie-film n\u00e5gon? Kolla h\u00e4r.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Men det b\u00e4sta av allt, \u00e4r \u00e4nd\u00e5 det sista vi g\u00f6r i Vinales. F\u00f6r efter zipliningen beger vi oss till Vinalesdalens allra avl\u00e4gsnaste och v\u00e4stligaste h\u00f6rn. H\u00e4r parkerar vi Mercan. Vi anl\u00e4nder just som skolan har slutat f\u00f6r dagen och alla barnen blir h\u00e4mtade p\u00e5 h\u00e4stryggen av sina f\u00e4der. Vi promenerar genom det gr\u00f6nskande landskapet. Fj\u00e4rilar, betande oxar, gr\u00f6nskande \u00e4ngar och tobaksf\u00e4lt. Sm\u00e5 g\u00e5rdar och hus. Det \u00e4r ocks\u00e5 nu som solen v\u00e4ljer att komma fram igen efter n\u00e5gon dags fr\u00e5nvaro. Kan det bli b\u00e4ttre?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Jo, det kan det f\u00f6r nu \u00e4r vi framme. En familj tar emot i ett farmhouse. Man har lagat en storslagen m\u00e5ltid \u00e5t oss. Endast g\u00e5rdens egna r\u00e5varor. Vi \u00e4ter lunch och samtalar i stillhet. Man visar oss nya kvigan och rullar oss varsin hemmagjord cigarr. Sedan blir det oxk\u00e4rra tillbaka.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Och man kan bara ana ironin i det faktum att oxarna ”r\u00e5kar” heta Comandante och Colonel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Vi f\u00f6rst\u00e5r ju p\u00e5 ett intellektuellt plan att detta \u00e4r arrangerat f\u00f6r oss som turister och att det f\u00f6rst\u00e5s kommer en strid str\u00f6m av bes\u00f6kare och \u00e4ter sin lunch h\u00e4r. Men det k\u00e4nns<\/em> liksom inte s\u00e5! Det k\u00e4nns som att vi \u00e4r familjens privata g\u00e4ster och som att ingen annan turist n\u00e5gonsin varit h\u00e4r och \u00e4tit. Vi k\u00e4nner oss, d\u00e4r vi skumpar hem p\u00e5 Comandante och Colonel, (-In town I will buy a new ass, som Christofer s\u00e5 fink\u00e4nsligt uttrycker saken) som att vi varit med om n\u00e5got helt unikt och alldeles f\u00f6rskr\u00e4ckligt m\u00e4rkv\u00e4rdigt.
Och det m\u00e5ste v\u00e4l vara varje touringf\u00f6retags m\u00e5l, att f\u00e5 sina kunder att k\u00e4nna precis s\u00e5.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

P\u00e5 hemv\u00e4g f\u00e5r vi en flaska m\u00f6rk kubansk rom av guiden och v\u00e5r chauff\u00f6r stannar l\u00e4ngs v\u00e4gen och k\u00f6per oss en bukett blommor. Nog f\u00f6rst\u00e5r vi att det ing\u00e5r i touren, men det k\u00e4nns \u00e4nd\u00e5 som att vi f\u00e5tt en personlig g\u00e5va av v\u00e5ra tv\u00e5 nya och mycket s\u00e4rskilda v\u00e4nner.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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<\/p>\n\n\n\n

L\u00e4s alla v\u00e5ra inl\u00e4gg fr\u00e5n Kuba h\u00e4r.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

V\u00e4lkommen att f\u00f6lja 4000mil p\u00e5<\/span> Facebook<\/span><\/a>,<\/span> Instagram<\/span><\/a> och<\/span> Bloglovin<\/span><\/a> f\u00f6r mer reseinpiration i dina fl\u00f6den!<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u00c5sikterna g\u00e5r is\u00e4r om Vinales.-F\u00f6r turistiskt!-Underbart vackert!Men har man nu velat bes\u00f6ka en plats i bortemot 20 \u00e5r, s\u00e5 \u00e5ker man ju hur som haver. S\u00e5 f\u00e5r man sj\u00e4lv se hur det egentligen \u00e4r. Vi har 3 heldagar p\u00e5 Kuba. En dag \u00e4r vikt \u00e5t Havanna f\u00f6rst\u00e5s, men sedan l\u00e4gger […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":16532,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1596],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-16500","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-kuba"],"yoast_head":"\nVinales - kan Kuba blir mer "the real thing"?<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Vinales p\u00e5 V\u00e4stra Kuba \u00e4r tobaksodlingar och landsbygd. H\u00e4sten \u00e4r ett transportmedel och oxk\u00e4rran likas\u00e5. 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