{"id":22779,"date":"2018-10-28T08:00:00","date_gmt":"2018-10-28T07:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/4000mil.se\/?p=22779"},"modified":"2026-04-06T17:36:55","modified_gmt":"2026-04-06T15:36:55","slug":"madeiras-basta-vandring-pico-ruivo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/4000mil.se\/index.php\/madeiras-basta-vandring-pico-ruivo\/","title":{"rendered":"Madeiras b\u00e4sta vandring – Pico do Arieiro till Pico Ruivo"},"content":{"rendered":"

Du beg\u00e4r f\u00f6r mycket av sommaren<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

S\u00e5 b\u00f6rjar en dikt av G\u00f6ran Grejder<\/a> som st\u00e4mmer allt f\u00f6r v\u00e4l in p\u00e5 mig. F\u00f6r jag beg\u00e4r alltid f\u00f6r mycket av sommaren. Och sen av h\u00f6sten och vintern och s\u00e5 v\u00e5ren ocks\u00e5. Jag vill maxa varje dag.\u00a0Varje dag vill jag st\u00e5 p\u00e5 toppen av ett berg och skrika:<\/p>\n

– I am the king of he world!<\/p>\n

Vi \u00e5ker till Madeira. F\u00f6r att maxa helt klart. Vi vill uppleva, se och g\u00f6ra. F\u00f6rv\u00e5nas och f\u00f6rundras. \u00d6ver den stora bl\u00e5 Atlanten. \u00d6ver de vidunderliga gr\u00f6na bergen.<\/p>\n

\"Madeiras<\/p>\n

Vi \u00e5ker p\u00e5 jeeptur. B\u00f6rjar dagen p\u00e5 Pico do Arieiro, Madeiras tredje h\u00f6gsta berg. Har tur med v\u00e4dret. V\u00e5r guide l\u00e5ter oss f\u00f6rst\u00e5 att det \u00e4r inte varje dag som\u00a0Pico do Arieiro \u00e4r ”\u00f6ppen”, som han s\u00e4ger. Utan moln allts\u00e5. P\u00e5 moln sv\u00e4var d\u00e4remot vi. Ensamma d\u00e4r uppe med hela Madeira f\u00f6r v\u00e5ra f\u00f6tter. Hittar en stig. B\u00f6rjar g\u00e5.<\/p>\n

\"Madeiras<\/p>\n

– Nej vi m\u00e5ste v\u00e4nda tillbaka, s\u00e4ger Christofer. Vi skulle \u00e5ka vidare kvart \u00f6ver. Guiden hade fler utsiktspunkter han ville att vi skulle hinna se.<\/p>\n

– Jag ska bara g\u00e5 en liten bit, s\u00e4ger jag. Jag kommer ikapp.<\/p>\n

Jag g\u00e5r som i trans. Det dr\u00f6jer inte l\u00e4nge innan jag f\u00f6rst\u00e5r. Detta \u00e4r leden till Pico Ruivo. Det m\u00e5ste det vara! Leden som jag best\u00e4mt mig f\u00f6r att vandra n\u00e4r Christofer dyker p\u00e5 onsdag. Leden som jag inte kan st\u00e5 ut med att inte ha vandrat. Om jag nu en g\u00e5ng \u00e4r p\u00e5 Madeira.<\/p>\n

Jag st\u00e5r d\u00e4r som en varg med nosen i v\u00e4dret. Stigen lockar och ropar som ett skogsr\u00e5. ”Kom, kom med mig! T\u00e4nk inte mer p\u00e5 jeepturen. Eller din man! Du kan l\u00e4mna allt, du har det b\u00e4ttre h\u00e4r med mig.”<\/p>\n

De tv\u00e5 v\u00e4rldarna sliter och drar i mig. Jag ylar, l\u00e5ngdraget och sorgset mot leden en sista g\u00e5ng och s\u00e5 v\u00e4nder jag s\u00e5 \u00e5ter mot jeepen. Mot mitt liv, mot civilisationen.<\/p>\n

\"Madeiras<\/p>\n

H\u00e4r ska jag vandra. Men inte idag.<\/p>\n

Tv\u00e5 dagar senare. V\u00e4derapparna f\u00f6rvandlas p\u00e5 Madeira till riktiga rysare och nagelbitare. Idag verkar vi ha mest chans till sol mellan 10 och 12. 12 till 13 n\u00e5gon g\u00e5ng kommer regn. Som sedan tilltar vid 15. Leden tar 5 timmar n\u00e5gonstans, s\u00e5 jag har valt en tidig start. Upph\u00e4mtning av taxi halv nio och strax efter nio \u00e4r vi p\u00e5 plats d\u00e4r uppe. En gr\u00f6tf\u00e4rgad dimma t\u00e4cker toppen idag. Min chauff\u00f6r s\u00e4ger f\u00f6rsiktigt att bilens instrumentpanel visar p\u00e5 10 grader d\u00e4r ute.<\/p>\n

– Har du regnkl\u00e4der? fr\u00e5gar han milt.<\/p>\n

Vi byter WhatsApp-nummer och testmessar.<\/p>\n

\"Madeiras<\/p>\n

– Om det k\u00e4nns f\u00f6r farligt, kan du v\u00e4nda, s\u00e5 h\u00e4mtar jag upp dig h\u00e4r igen, lirkar han. Vi brukar inte rekommendera att man g\u00e5r h\u00e4r ensam.<\/p>\n

Jag kliver ur taxin. Han k\u00f6r iv\u00e4g. Jag k\u00f6per en m\u00f6ssa. Ska den ha texten Madeira<\/em> <\/strong>eller Portugal<\/em><\/strong>? Portugal k\u00e4nns ju liksom bredare \u00e4nd\u00e5? Mer all-round-m\u00f6ssa av den liksom? Vantar har de inte i souvenirshopen. Att anv\u00e4nda toaletten kostar en halv Euro. Better be safe than sorry.<\/p>\n

\"Madeiras<\/p>\n

Well, nog pjoskat, nu k\u00f6r vi.<\/p>\n

Jag b\u00f6rjar min vandring. Dimman \u00e4r inte kompakt, den b\u00f6ljar lite fram och tillbaka. Avsl\u00f6jar kanske de g\u00f6ttaste konturerna \u00e4nd\u00e5. Att det stupar brant ner p\u00e5 b\u00e4gge sidor av stigen. Coolt!<\/p>\n

\"Madeiras
\n\"Madeiras
\n\"Madeiras
\n\"Madeiras<\/p>\n

T\u00e4nker p\u00e5 v\u00e5r levada-guide fr\u00e5n i s\u00f6ndags. Som visade oss p\u00e5 de gamla traditionella Madeira-husen. De har antingen sm\u00e5 pojkhuvuden eller duvor i varje h\u00f6rt av taket. Om en familj \u00f6nskade sig m\u00e5nga barn, valde man pojkhuvudet. \u00d6nskade man sig i st\u00e4llet ett fridsamt liv, blev det duvor.<\/p>\n

N\u00e4r guidens farmor f\u00f6r f\u00f6rsta g\u00e5ngen ber\u00e4ttat detta f\u00f6r honom hade han \u00f6vermodigt sagt ”Jag skulle s\u00e4tta tv\u00e5 av varje p\u00e5 mitt hus, s\u00e5 att jag f\u00e5r b\u00e5da”. Farmodern hade d\u00e5 blivit mycket uppr\u00f6rd och arg. ”Du beg\u00e4r f\u00f6r mycket! Man kan inte f\u00e5 allt av livet.”<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

Kanske beg\u00e4r jag ocks\u00e5 f\u00f6r mycket, t\u00e4nker jag, om jag \u00f6nskar mig ytterligare en molnfri dag h\u00e4r uppe p\u00e5 Madeiras tak. Kanske borde jag vara tacksam \u00f6ver de g\u00e5nger n\u00e4r dimman glider is\u00e4r och avsl\u00f6jar en reva av bergsformationer och gr\u00f6na frodiga dalar. Kanske beg\u00e4r jag f\u00f6r mycket av h\u00f6sten nu igen?<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

\"Madeiras<\/p>\n

Vi \u00e4r n\u00e5gra stycken vandrare. Som h\u00f6r varandra mer \u00e4n ser. Franska r\u00f6ster framf\u00f6r. Amerikanska bakom. Kameraf\u00e4stet p\u00e5 ryggans rem f\u00f6rblir ganska oanv\u00e4nd \u00e4nd\u00e5. Trots att jag fick dimma p\u00e5 min dag.<\/p>\n

Min sula glider en g\u00e5ng. Men det finns vajerr\u00e4cken n\u00e4sta \u00f6verallt. Och jag har ett stadigt tag. Det ska nog g\u00e5 bra det h\u00e4r med. Fast\u00e4n jag nu vandrar ensam.<\/p>\n

F\u00f6rsta tunneln. Bra, d\u00e5 vet jag var jag \u00e4r. \u00c4gnade en stund \u00e5t att studera kartan innan jag gick. Och fota av den, f\u00f6r den delen.<\/p>\n

\"Madeiras<\/p>\n

Och p\u00e5 andra sidan! Dimman \u00e4r borta! Dalen \u00f6ppnar sig. Jag \u00e4r tacksam. Amerikanerna som jag h\u00f6rt, materialiseras och tar selfies. Fransm\u00e4nnen skalar av n\u00e5gra lager.<\/p>\n

\"Madeiras
\n\"Madeiras<\/p>\n

Trappor, stup och vajrar. Vi vandrar vidare. En kr\u00f6kt tunnel. Tur man har ficklampa p\u00e5 mobilen. Pl\u00f6tsligt k\u00e4nns det inte lika absurt l\u00e4ngre med det v\u00e5r levadaguide ber\u00e4ttade om, att han ibland har turister som v\u00e4grar g\u00e5 in i tunnlarna. Jag fattar grejen d\u00e4r jag g\u00e5r ensam i m\u00f6rkret med min ficklampa.<\/p>\n

En fransk familj med tre barn, den yngsta, en\u00a0 flicka, ser inte ut att vara \u00e4ldre \u00e4n sju, k\u00f6r om. Men jag stannar ju och fotar s\u00e5 mycket, inget konstigt med det. Alls faktiskt.<\/p>\n

Vi tappar orov\u00e4ckande m\u00e5nga h\u00f6jdmeter. F\u00f6r allt ska tas igen. Before the fat lady sings. Som det heter. Testar min h\u00f6jdmeter-app. Men vet ju inte om den visar r\u00e4tt.<\/p>\n

\"Madeiras
\n\"Madeiras
\n\"Madeiras
\n\"Madeiras<\/p>\n

S\u00e5 b\u00f6rjar stigningen. Branta st\u00e5ltrappor, n\u00e4rmast stegar. Klungan t\u00e4tnar, vi g\u00e5r alla p\u00e5 led nu, uppf\u00f6r, uppf\u00f6r. Flera hundra h\u00f6jdmeter plockar vi. Jag fl\u00e5sar och svettas. Trots att jag nu g\u00e5r i kort\u00e4rmat bara. Ett kr\u00f6n. Och benen skallrar n\u00e4stan. Vi r\u00f6r oss runt berget vi ska bestiga. L\u00e5ngsammare takt upp\u00e5t nu. H\u00e4r har skogen brunnit. Tr\u00e4den \u00e4r d\u00f6da nakna sp\u00f6ktr\u00e4d, medan resten av naturen redan hunnit ikapp.<\/p>\n

\"Madeiras
\n\"Madeiras
\n\"Madeiras
\n\"Madeiras<\/p>\n

Nu kommer avtagsv\u00e4gen som jag ska ta p\u00e5 nerv\u00e4g. Mot parkeringen d\u00e4r jag st\u00e4mt tr\u00e4ff med min chauff\u00f6r. Jag tar v\u00e4nster.<\/p>\n

Sista biten kvar nu till Madeiras h\u00f6gsta topp. Jag ser ju sj\u00e4lv att jag k\u00e4mpar mot tiden. Molnen sveper in \u00e4ven h\u00e4r. N\u00e4r jag tar klivet upp p\u00e5 toppavsatsen, \u00e4r den en v\u00e4rld av ulligt vitt. Utsikten \u00e4r noll i samtliga v\u00e4derstreck.<\/p>\n

\"Madeiras<\/p>\n

Jag beg\u00e4r f\u00f6r mycket av h\u00f6sten.<\/em><\/strong> Det beh\u00f6vs ju ingen utsikt just h\u00e4r. Jag har redan f\u00e5tt min andel.<\/p>\n

S\u00e4tter mig ner. Messar min chauff\u00f6r. D\u00e4r fick han minsann. V\u00e4lbeh\u00e5llen och f\u00f6re schemat, st\u00e5r jag p\u00e5 toppen. Det f\u00e5r han tugga i sig bara!<\/p>\n

Packar upp min mats\u00e4ck. G\u00e5r direkt p\u00e5 sockret. Kakor, banan, mandarin och KitKat. Kroppen vet b\u00e4st vad den beh\u00f6ver. S\u00e5dets\u00e5.<\/p>\n

Nu \u00f6ppnar sig toppen igen. Utsikt norrut mot Santana och havet.<\/p>\n

-I am the f-cking king of the world!<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

\"Madeiras
\n\"Madeiras
\n\"Madeiras<\/p>\n

Nedstigningen till n\u00e4rmaste bilv\u00e4g och parkering vid\u00a0Achada do Teixeira\u00a0tar 1 timme. De ”vandrare” jag m\u00f6ter nu har axelremsv\u00e4skor och loafers. Inga Portugal-m\u00f6ssor, ingen n\u00f6dproviant och inga packade regnkl\u00e4der.<\/p>\n

Jag tittar deltagande p\u00e5 dem n\u00e4r vi m\u00f6ts. F\u00f6r de har g\u00e5tt miste om s\u00e5 mycket. \u00c4r inte lika hardcore och h\u00e5rdkokta. Som jag. Och den 7-\u00e5riga franska flickan.<\/p>\n

\"Madeiras
\n\"Madeiras
\n\"Madeiras<\/p>\n

Fakta om vandringen<\/h2>\n

Vandringen fr\u00e5n Madeiras tredje h\u00f6gsta topp,\u00a0Pico do Arieiro<\/strong><\/em> till den h\u00f6gsta, Pico Ruivo<\/em><\/strong> \u00e4r endast 6 km l\u00e5ng men betecknas som ”hard”. Man b\u00f6rjar p\u00e5 1818 m.\u00f6.h, men g\u00e5r upp och ner ett antal g\u00e5nger med en sammanlagd nedstigning och uppstigning p\u00e5 1000 meter. Man avslutar p\u00e5 1861 m.\u00f6.h. Leden tar n\u00e5gonstans mellan 2 och 4 timmar beroende p\u00e5 f\u00f6ruts\u00e4ttningar och hur snabbt man g\u00e5r. Sj\u00e4lv gick jag p\u00e5 2,5 timmar ungef\u00e4r.<\/p>\n

Sedan f\u00f6ljer en timmes relativt enkelt vandring till\u00a0Achada do Teixeira<\/em><\/strong> f\u00f6r att n\u00e5 n\u00e4rmaste v\u00e4g och bilparkering.<\/p>\n

F\u00f6r att kunna g\u00f6ra denna vandring m\u00e5ste man allts\u00e5 ordna skjuts till startpunkten och sedan upph\u00e4mtning vid slutet. Detta ordnas enklast genom att l\u00e5ta hotellet boka en taxi. Min taxitur kostade totalt 80 Euro. Chauff\u00f6rerna p\u00e5 Madeira \u00e4r mycket vana vid att h\u00e4mta och l\u00e4mna turister f\u00f6r olika vandringar och h\u00e4mtningen arrangeras vid telefonsamtal, sms eller WhatsApp.<\/p>\n

Anv\u00e4nder man ist\u00e4llet hyrbil f\u00e5r man g\u00e5 tillbaka till\u00a0Pico do Arieiro i st\u00e4llet f\u00f6r till\u00a0Achada do Teixeira. Funkar ju det ocks\u00e5 f\u00f6rst\u00e5s.<\/p>\n

\"Madeiras<\/p>\n

L\u00e4s alla v\u00e5ra inl\u00e4gg fr\u00e5n Madeira h\u00e4r<\/a> och om alla v\u00e5ra vandringar runt om i v\u00e4rlden h\u00e4r<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Gillar du ocks\u00e5 att vandra p\u00e5 resa? Gl\u00f6m d\u00e5 inte att gilla 4000mil p\u00e5 Facebook<\/a>.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\n

Resan genomf\u00f6rdes som en pressresa i samarbete med\u00a0VisitPortugal<\/a>\u00a0och\u00a0Madeira Promotion Bureau<\/a>.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Du beg\u00e4r f\u00f6r mycket av sommaren S\u00e5 b\u00f6rjar en dikt av G\u00f6ran Grejder som st\u00e4mmer allt f\u00f6r v\u00e4l in p\u00e5 mig. F\u00f6r jag beg\u00e4r alltid f\u00f6r mycket av sommaren. Och sen av h\u00f6sten och vintern och s\u00e5 v\u00e5ren ocks\u00e5. Jag vill maxa varje dag.\u00a0Varje dag vill jag st\u00e5 p\u00e5 toppen […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":22847,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1497,2],"tags":[1672,12683],"class_list":["post-22779","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-portugal","category-vandring","tag-madeira","tag-vandring-i-europa"],"yoast_head":"\nMadeiras b\u00e4sta vandring - Pico do Arieiro till Pico Ruivo<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Vandringen fr\u00e5n Pico do Arieiro till Pico Ruivo h\u00e4r helt klart Madeiras b\u00e4sta vandring. 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