{"id":22883,"date":"2018-11-06T06:45:00","date_gmt":"2018-11-06T05:45:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/4000mil.se\/?p=22883"},"modified":"2020-05-27T14:48:14","modified_gmt":"2020-05-27T12:48:14","slug":"jeeptur-pa-ostra-madeira-bergen","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/4000mil.se\/index.php\/jeeptur-pa-ostra-madeira-bergen\/","title":{"rendered":"Jeeptur p\u00e5 \u00f6stra Madeira – fr\u00e5n h\u00f6gsta bergen till s\u00f6taste stugorna. Och lite off-road p\u00e5 det"},"content":{"rendered":"

V\u00e5r inbokade jeeptur med Hit the road Madeira<\/a>, kunde inte ha b\u00f6rjat b\u00e4ttre. Vi har sol och molnfritt. Inte helt ovanligt vid kusten kanske, men vad b\u00e4ttre \u00e4r, det ser \u00e4ven ut att kunna vara samma v\u00e4der \u00e4nda uppe p\u00e5 Madeiras h\u00f6gsta toppar. Vi f\u00f6rst\u00e5r att detta \u00e4r n\u00e5got m\u00e4rkv\u00e4rdigt eftersom v\u00e5r chauff\u00f6r och guide f\u00f6r dagen \u00e4r lite sm\u00e5stressad och alldeles till sig samtidigt.<\/p>\n

Han f\u00e5r br\u00e5ttom att packa in oss i jeepen. Man k\u00f6r alltid med sm\u00e5 grupper, och idag \u00e4r det till p\u00e5 k\u00f6pet bara vi med p\u00e5 turen. Br\u00e5ttom, br\u00e5ttom iv\u00e4g, samtligt som vi oroligt och oupph\u00f6rligt sneglar upp mot bergen, s\u00e5 gott det nu g\u00e5r. Fort, fort och kanske, kanske att toppen faktiskt kan vara ”\u00f6ppen” idag.<\/p>\n

\"Jeeptur<\/p>\n

Vi \u00e5ker genom tunnlar som f\u00e5r v\u00e5ra \u00f6ron att sl\u00e5 lock. 2000 meter ska vi stiga p\u00e5 45 minuter. L\u00e4mnar den breda motorv\u00e4gen och tunnlarna och stiger nu via serpentiner. Ett g\u00e4ng f\u00e5r sinar v\u00e5r framfart en aning. Nu snart kommer den. Punkten n\u00e4r vi kan se med egna \u00f6gon om toppen faktiskt \u00e4r \u00f6ppen eller om moln \u00e4nd\u00e5 kommer att hindra oss.<\/p>\n

-Yes it is open, it really is! Och inga turistbussar \u00e4n heller! F\u00f6r bra f\u00f6r att vara sant.<\/p>\n

\"Jeeptur<\/p>\n

D\u00e4r uppe \u00e4r det kyligt. Och ganska \u00f6de. Ett litet f\u00f6rsiktigt regn. Fast\u00e4n det ju liksom var molnfritt. N\u00e5v\u00e4l, h\u00e4nder bara p\u00e5 Madeira. Vi f\u00e5r 30 minuter att vandra runt, fota och begrunda utsikten. Vi ser havet \u00e5t flera h\u00e5ll. St\u00f6rre \u00e4n s\u00e5 \u00e4r inte \u00f6n.<\/p>\n

L\u00e4s h\u00e4r om mitt f\u00f6rsta m\u00f6te med vandringleden till Pico Reivo och om n\u00e4r jag best\u00e4mde mig f\u00f6r att ”H\u00e4r ska jag vandra!”<\/a><\/p>\n

\"Jeeptur<\/p>\n

Vi hoppar in i jeepen igen. Vi har fler utsiktspunkter vi vill hinna med innan molnen, eventuellt drar in. Nu m\u00f6ter vi turistbussarna p\u00e5 rad. Det f\u00e5r tricksas och fixas lite i kurvorna.\u00a0 Hela tre kryssningsfartyg ligger inne i hamnen i Funchal idag. Det kommer att bli tr\u00e5ngt om saligheten. B\u00e5de nere i stan och h\u00e4r uppe.<\/p>\n

Nu f\u00e5r jeepen g\u00f6ra sk\u00e4l f\u00f6r sig. F\u00f6r att ta samma v\u00e4g ner \u00e4r f\u00f6rst\u00e5s tr\u00e5kigt. Vi v\u00e4ljer i st\u00e4llet en gammal v\u00e4g som byggdes f\u00f6r att transportera d\u00e5tidens herrem\u00e4n per b\u00e4rstol \u00f6ver \u00f6n.<\/p>\n

G\u00f6r en kortare levada-vandring som slutar i en utsiktspunkt d\u00e4r vi kan blicka upp mot toppen vi just stod p\u00e5. Nu delvis t\u00e4ckt av moln. Madeira handlar om tajming.<\/p>\n

\"Jeeptur
\n\"Jeeptur
\n\"Jeeptur<\/p>\n

Kort paus vid ett litet trivsamt fik. Christofer tar en kaffe, men vad ska jag ta som inte dricker kaffe l\u00e4ngre? Har precis best\u00e4mt mig f\u00f6r en flaska vatten n\u00e4r jag f\u00e5r syn p\u00e5 en tillbringare med hemgjord passionsfrukt-juice. Sv\u00e4nger p\u00e5 en fem\u00f6ring och s\u00e4ger till Christofer att en s\u00e5n vill jag ha<\/em>, innan jag styr mot damrummet.<\/p>\n

Kommer ut, s\u00e4tter mig. Ganska litet glas juice jag fick \u00e4nd\u00e5, hinner jag t\u00e4nka. Men man f\u00e5r v\u00e4l vara tacksam f\u00f6r det lilla. Tar en stor klunk och det \u00e4r ju f\u00f6rst\u00e5s inte alls juice utan den hemmagjorda romdrinken\u00a0Poncha, som jag nu s\u00e5 n\u00e4r s\u00e4tter i halsen. Ocks\u00e5 ett s\u00e4tt att kickstarta f\u00f6rmiddagen p\u00e5!<\/p>\n

\"Jeeptur
\n\"Jeeptur<\/p>\n

Mer off-road. P\u00e5minner lite om v\u00e4garna min italienska GPS tyckte att jag gott kunde k\u00f6ra p\u00e5 i Kalabrien<\/a> i v\u00e5ras. Med min 2-hjulsdrivna symaskinsmotor. Men nu har vi en jeep och det \u00e4r inte jag som k\u00f6r, s\u00e5 fine with me.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"Jeeptur
\n\"Jeeptur<\/p>\n

Nu r\u00f6r vi oss ned\u00e5t p\u00e5 norrsidan av \u00f6n. H\u00e4r ligger den lilla orten Santana. H\u00e4r regnar det j\u00e4mt, folk \u00e4r sjukt religi\u00f6sa, odlar sina egna gr\u00f6nsaker och har pengarna i madrassen. S\u00e4gs det. Vi synar inte, utan stiger bara lugnt ur jeepen vid det storms\u00f6ta pepparkakshuset mitt i byn.<\/p>\n

Detta \u00e4r ett traditionellt madeirahus med tak av halm. Dessa tak m\u00e5ste bytas vart femte \u00e5r och kostnaden f\u00f6r detta \u00e4r d\u00e5 40.000 kr. Inte undra p\u00e5 att s\u00e5 m\u00e5nga av dessa hus numera stoltserar med prima pl\u00e5ttak i st\u00e4llet. Kvar finns egentligen bara detta, fortfarande privat\u00e4gda hus och n\u00e5gra stycken statligt \u00e4gda som visas som museum.<\/p>\n

– Eftersom vi bara har sm\u00e5 grupper, kan vi \u00e5ka hit, s\u00e4ger v\u00e5r guide. Bussarna \u00e5ker till de statliga husen. Det vill s\u00e4ga om jag har klienter som f\u00f6rtj\u00e4nar att komma hit. Om man n\u00e5gon g\u00e5ng har med sig folk som bara st\u00e4ller till problem, s\u00e5 f\u00e5r de i st\u00e4llet se de statliga husen.<\/p>\n

\"Jeeptur<\/p>\n

Husets \u00e4gare, en mycket s\u00f6t liten farbror, bor sj\u00e4lv numera i ett nybyggt hus bakom. Detta visningshus \u00e4r uppm\u00f6blerat med gamla m\u00f6bler. Vardagsrum, sovrum och s\u00e5 k\u00f6k l\u00e4ngst in. Vi blir mottagna med lik\u00f6r och pepparkakor. Allas v\u00e5r s\u00f6ta farbror \u00e4r behj\u00e4lplig att ta kort p\u00e5 oss b\u00e5da framf\u00f6r huset. Han vet precis var man ska st\u00e5 f\u00f6r att f\u00e5 med allt. Mitt i rabatten, bakom hortenisan.<\/p>\n

\"Jeeptur<\/p>\n

Bes\u00f6ket kostar precis ingenting alls, allt bygger p\u00e5 g\u00e4stfrihet och god vilja. Men p\u00e5 v\u00e4gen ut l\u00e4gger vi f\u00f6rst\u00e5s en sedel i den blommiga lilla porslinssk\u00e5len p\u00e5 brickan med pepparkakorna och lik\u00f6ren.<\/p>\n

Som sagt, 40.000 vart femte \u00e5r.<\/p>\n

\"Jeeptur<\/p>\n

Nu \u00e4r det lunchdags. Och det \u00e4r nu det b\u00f6rjar att regna. Vi kommer fram till restaurangen precis lagom f\u00f6r att njuta av utsikten n\u00e5gra minuter innan dimmorna sveper in. Bussarna, som visst \u00e4r oss hack i h\u00e4l hela dagen idag, sitter inomhus och hinner aldrig se utsikten.<\/p>\n

\"Jeeptur<\/p>\n

Madeiravin, fisk, efterr\u00e4tt och kaffe. Med mindre \u00e4n s\u00e5 vill man inte sl\u00e4ppa iv\u00e4g oss.<\/p>\n

\"Jeeptur
\n\"Jeeptur<\/p>\n

Tunnlar, tunnlar, tunnlar, efter kusten. Efter varannan tunnel regnar det, efter varannan spricker det upp.<\/p>\n

Nu \u00e4r det dags att stoppa vid en romfabrik. Vi f\u00f6r f\u00f6rst\u00e5s prova, 20%, 40% och 80%. Varav den sista aldrig l\u00e4mnar \u00f6n, p\u00e5 tok f\u00f6r stark f\u00f6r EU.<\/p>\n

\"Jeeptur
\n\"Jeeptur
\n\"Jeeptur
\n\"Jeeptur<\/p>\n

L\u00e4ngst ut i \u00f6ster ligger en smal halv\u00f6. Halv\u00f6n som gud gl\u00f6mde, h\u00f6ll jag p\u00e5 att s\u00e4ga, men det var visst precis tv\u00e4rt om. Halv\u00f6n som alla Madeiras elaka regnmoln, gl\u00f6mde och helt missar p\u00e5 sin radar, f\u00f6r h\u00e4r ute tycks det vara evig sol. Vi tar ett kortare stopp vid utsiktspunkten. Efter v\u00e5r specifika fr\u00e5ga f\u00e5r vi ocks\u00e5 \u00e5ka fram och kika p\u00e5 vandringsledens startpunkt.<\/p>\n

F\u00f6r jag har best\u00e4mt mig f\u00f6r andra g\u00e5ngen idag.<\/p>\n

– H\u00e4r ska jag vandra!<\/p>\n

\"Jeeptur
\n\"Jeeptur<\/p>\n

\"Jeeptur
N\u00e4r vi s\u00e5g p\u00e5 varann och vi n\u00e4rmade oss land?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

L\u00e4s alla v\u00e5ra inl\u00e4gg om Madeira h\u00e4r.<\/a><\/p>\n

\n

Resan genomf\u00f6rdes som en pressresa i samarbete med\u00a0VisitPortugal<\/a>\u00a0och\u00a0Madeira Promotion Bureau<\/a>.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

V\u00e5r inbokade jeeptur med Hit the road Madeira, kunde inte ha b\u00f6rjat b\u00e4ttre. Vi har sol och molnfritt. Inte helt ovanligt vid kusten kanske, men vad b\u00e4ttre \u00e4r, det ser \u00e4ven ut att kunna vara samma v\u00e4der \u00e4nda uppe p\u00e5 Madeiras h\u00f6gsta toppar. Vi f\u00f6rst\u00e5r att detta \u00e4r n\u00e5got m\u00e4rkv\u00e4rdigt […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":23142,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1497],"tags":[1672],"class_list":["post-22883","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-portugal","tag-madeira"],"yoast_head":"\nJeeptur p\u00e5 \u00f6stra Madeira - fr\u00e5n h\u00f6gsta bergen till s\u00f6taste stugorna. 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