{"id":26249,"date":"2019-05-04T07:48:00","date_gmt":"2019-05-04T05:48:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/4000mil.se\/?p=26249"},"modified":"2021-06-01T09:37:59","modified_gmt":"2021-06-01T07:37:59","slug":"min-heldag-i-kiev","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/4000mil.se\/index.php\/min-heldag-i-kiev\/","title":{"rendered":"Min heldag i Kiev – l\u00f6kkupoler, vigvatten och presidentval"},"content":{"rendered":"

Kiev och jag har b\u00f6rjat lite f\u00f6rsiktigt och avvaktande \u00e4nd\u00e5. Stora motorleder som sk\u00e4r genom stan. Sovjetarkitektur, v\u00e4rsta sorten s\u00e5v\u00e4l som den lite mer f\u00f6rl\u00e5tande sorten. Men \u00e4nd\u00e5 Sovjetarkitektur. Isande kalla vindar ovanp\u00e5 min tokf\u00f6rkylning som \u00e4nnu ligger och skvalpar i systemen. Jag skulle nog ha beh\u00f6vt en dag till innan resan. Handbagaget fyllt med Neseril, Alvedon och Fishermans Friends svartvit-randiga.<\/p>\n

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Mer \u00e4n s\u00e5 hinner vi inte v\u00e5r f\u00f6rsta kv\u00e4ll, Kiev och jag.<\/p>\n

S\u00f6ndag, dagen efter min efter en 13 timmarstur till Tjernobyl, beviljar jag mig sj\u00e4lv sovmorgon. Men vad bryr sig v\u00e4l min \u00f6verhettade hj\u00e4rna om det. Klockan \u00e4r inte mycket mer \u00e4n 6 (det vill s\u00e4ga 5 svensk tid) n\u00e4r den drar ig\u00e5ng processorerna f\u00f6r dagen.<\/p>\n

Alla mina fem fr\u00e5n golv till tak-f\u00f6nster i takv\u00e5ningen p\u00e5 Senator Maidan Appartments<\/a> visar sol och bl\u00e5 himmel. Vad \u00e4n v\u00e4derapparna s\u00e4ger om det.<\/p>\n

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Klockan 7 st\u00e5r jag redo f\u00f6r promenad p\u00e5 folktomma gator. Sofia-katedralen<\/strong>, St Michaels klostret<\/strong> och hela avenyn d\u00e4r emellan utan en enda bil. Bara jag och damerna som l\u00e5ngsamt packar upp f\u00f6r dagens f\u00f6rs\u00e4ljning. Sm\u00e5 buketter av kvistar som ska s\u00e4ljas till kyrkobes\u00f6karna idag. Solen bl\u00e4nker i de gyllene l\u00f6kkupolerna.<\/p>\n

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P\u00e5skdagen \u00e4r det hemma, men h\u00e4r i Ukraina har Jesus allt det jobbiga kvar. Bara palms\u00f6ndag skriver man h\u00e4r idag och dags f\u00f6r Jesus att rida in i Jerusalem p\u00e5 sin \u00e5sna. Vad ska man med buketterna till? Ska de l\u00e4mnas i kyrkan? Till minne av n\u00e5gon? Ska de str\u00f6s som palmblad framf\u00f6r \u00e5snan? Eller ska de med hem igen efter kyrkobes\u00f6ket och s\u00e4ttas i en vas?<\/p>\n

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Det blir en sen frukost p\u00e5 hotellet. Levererad till rummet. Den h\u00e4r sviten<\/a> skulle jag kunna t\u00e4nka mig att ta med mig p\u00e5 hela resan. Som en liten husvagn eller n\u00e5t. Fast med v\u00e4rldens st\u00f6rsta badrum.<\/p>\n

Utcheckning och sedan \u00e4r jag helt i Kievs v\u00e5ld. Till Lavra<\/strong> \u00e4r det 45 minuter att g\u00e5, s\u00e4ger google maps. Om man som jag stannar och fotar s\u00e5 ofta man f\u00e5r lust och g\u00e5r p\u00e5 fri hand efter v\u00e4derstrecken snarare \u00e4n efter googles kartor, \u00e4r det \u00f6ver en timme.<\/p>\n

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Och Kiev \u00e4r ju inte alls bara motorleder som sk\u00e4r genom stan och Sovjetarkitektur. Det \u00e4r vackra hus l\u00e4ngs all\u00e9er, skir v\u00e5rgr\u00f6nska och s\u00f6ndagsflan\u00f6rer. Det \u00e4r solgass och v\u00e5rv\u00e4rme. Vad nu v\u00e4derapparna \u00e4n s\u00e4ger.<\/p>\n

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Tv\u00e5 unga tjejer stoppar mig och vill ta en selfie med mig. F\u00f6r ett skolprojekt. Jag st\u00e4ller upp och ler och tycker att det \u00e4r trevligt. Men h\u00e5ller samtidigt koll bak\u00e5t, s\u00e5 ingen vittjar min ryggs\u00e4ck under tiden. Den eviga balansg\u00e5ngen mellan att ge sig h\u00e4n och vara spontan. Interagera med lokalbefolkningen. Utan att vara naiv och l\u00e4ttlurad p\u00e5 n\u00e5got s\u00e4tt. Scams finns \u00f6ver hela v\u00e4rlden.<\/p>\n

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Lavra<\/strong> \u00e4r fyllt av flan\u00f6rer. Kyrkobes\u00f6kare och turister. Japanerna fotar de blommande k\u00f6rsb\u00e4rstr\u00e4den och oh’ar och ah’ar sig varje g\u00e5ng vinden bl\u00e5ser ner n\u00e5gra blommande blad. \u201dYou desire what you see every day\u201d<\/em>.<\/p>\n

En pr\u00e4st st\u00e4nker vigvatten p\u00e5 kyrkobes\u00f6karna innan de g\u00e5r in i kyrkan. En liten k\u00f6 bildas bakom. Ingen vill ju missa att bli v\u00e4lsignad.<\/p>\n

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Jag g\u00e5r in i kyrkorna och jag kl\u00e4ttrar upp i tornet. Men grottorna f\u00e5r vara f\u00f6r mig. Jag misst\u00e4nker bibliska figurer i fuktig, m\u00f6rk milj\u00f6 och \u00e4r inte intresserad.<\/p>\n

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Moderlandsmonumentet<\/strong> d\u00e4remot inneh\u00e5ller precis det jag beh\u00f6ver. Mera parker, mera solgass och en v\u00e4lbeh\u00f6vlig paus. Moderlandsparken<\/strong> \u00e4r fylld av stridsvagnar, stridsflygplan, och kanoner. Nationalism tycks starkt f\u00f6rknippat med strid och m\u00f6jligheten att f\u00f6rsvara sig. F\u00f6rst\u00e5s.<\/p>\n

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P\u00e5 tillbakav\u00e4g unnar jag min en taxi. Har fullt upp med den d\u00e4r adressen, den som blev fel kv\u00e4llen innan ni vet<\/a>. Idag har jag laddat ner Kiev off-line p\u00e5 maps.com, s\u00e5 jag kan visa min taxichauff\u00f6r vilket omr\u00e5de jag ska till.<\/p>\n

– D\u00e5 vet jag, s\u00e4ger han, Det finns ju tv\u00e5 s\u00e5nna gator i Kiev.<\/p>\n

Och s\u00e5 har jag f\u00e5tt min f\u00f6rklaring till varf\u00f6r det blev fel ig\u00e5r. Men gl\u00f6mmer i hastigheten, med kartor, adresser och allt att vara p\u00e5 min vakt vad g\u00e4ller priset. F\u00e5r ett turistpris f\u00f6rst\u00e5s, f\u00e5r betala 100 kr, f\u00f6rmodligen borde det bli under 50 kr.<\/p>\n

Men chauff\u00f6ren \u00e4r trevlig och vi pratar om valet. F\u00f6r det \u00e4r ju inte bara palms\u00f6ndag utan \u00e4ven presidentval h\u00e4r i Kiev idag.<\/p>\n

Porosjenko<\/strong> \u00e4r av den gamla stammen, han vill inte ha n\u00e5gra reformer. Zelenskij<\/strong> \u00e4r utmanaren. Ett opr\u00f6vat kort.<\/p>\n

– He is a showman! Som min taxichauff\u00f6r s\u00e4ger.<\/p>\n

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Jag betalar mitt \u00f6verpris och ser glad ut. N\u00e4r allt kommer omkring g\u00f6r nog pengarna b\u00e4ttre nytta i hans ficka \u00e4n i min.<\/p>\n

Jag \u00e4ter en sen lunch, som gr\u00e4nsar till middag. Restaurangen har mat fr\u00e5n Krim. Och s\u00e5 Halal p\u00e5 det. Hur nu det g\u00e5r ihop sig. Jag best\u00e4ller vegetariskt.<\/p>\n

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Sedan \u00e5terst\u00e5r bara en sak innan jag och Kiev \u00e4r f\u00e4rdiga med varandra. Jag g\u00e5r upp igen till Sofia-katedralen<\/strong>, som nu \u00e4r \u00f6ppen. Kl\u00e4ttrar upp i tornet, f\u00e5r de bilderna p\u00e5 minneskortet ocks\u00e5. Och n\u00e4thinnan. Taxi till flygplatsen. Nu v\u00e4ntar Jordanien.<\/p>\n

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Vi skiljs som goda v\u00e4nner Kiev och jag.\u00a0 \u00c4ven om vi b\u00f6rjade lite knaggligt.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Kiev och jag har b\u00f6rjat lite f\u00f6rsiktigt och avvaktande \u00e4nd\u00e5. Stora motorleder som sk\u00e4r genom stan. Sovjetarkitektur, v\u00e4rsta sorten s\u00e5v\u00e4l som den lite mer f\u00f6rl\u00e5tande sorten. Men \u00e4nd\u00e5 Sovjetarkitektur. Isande kalla vindar ovanp\u00e5 min tokf\u00f6rkylning som \u00e4nnu ligger och skvalpar i systemen. Jag skulle nog ha beh\u00f6vt en dag till […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":26326,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3648],"tags":[1576],"class_list":["post-26249","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-ukraina","tag-storstad"],"yoast_head":"\nMin heldag i Kiev - l\u00f6kkupoler, vigvatten och presidentval<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Kiev och jag har b\u00f6rjat lite f\u00f6rsiktigt och avvaktande \u00e4nd\u00e5. Stora motorleder som sk\u00e4r genom stan. 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