{"id":26521,"date":"2019-05-16T06:45:00","date_gmt":"2019-05-16T04:45:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/4000mil.se\/?p=26521"},"modified":"2022-05-21T10:47:18","modified_gmt":"2022-05-21T08:47:18","slug":"feynan-ecolodge-hotell","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/4000mil.se\/index.php\/feynan-ecolodge-hotell\/","title":{"rendered":"Feynan Ecolodge – n\u00e4r man hittar ett hotell som helt enkelt kr\u00e4ver ett eget inl\u00e4gg"},"content":{"rendered":"

Feynan Ecolodge. En k\u00e4ndis. Och en doldis samtidigt. Omskriven av De Stora Internationella Resemagasinen. Men bortanf\u00f6r allfarv\u00e4garna \u00e4nd\u00e5. Mainstreamturisten i Jordanien kommer inte hit. Kan kanske inte, f\u00f6r h\u00e4r \u00e4r alltid fullbokat i de 20 rummen.<\/p>\n

H\u00f6g svansf\u00f6ring. Och ambition. Egna solceller. Egen vattenrening och refill. Inga eng\u00e5ngsflaskor.<\/p>\n

\"Feynan
\n\"Feynan
\n\"Feynan
\n\"\"
\n\"Feynan<\/p>\n

Den lokala communityn har man med sig. M\u00e4nnen i byn g\u00e5r som barn i huset p\u00e5 lodgen. Sitter i de sk\u00f6na sofforna i foaj\u00e9n och h\u00e4nger tillsammans med oss bes\u00f6kare. Ler brett och hejar. Sl\u00e4ntrar ut n\u00e4r de efterfr\u00e5gas f\u00f6r ett jobb.<\/p>\n

F\u00f6r alla tj\u00e4nar p\u00e5 denna lodge. Beduinfamiljerna f\u00e5r del av inkomsten. De m\u00e5ste ju skjutsa turisterna de sista kilometrarna. De som kr\u00e4ver 4-hjulsdrift. Man vill inte h\u00f6ra talas om att dra riktig v\u00e4g fram. F\u00f6rst\u00e5s, fattas bara. Det \u00e4r ju h\u00e4r man drar in sina pengar. Men ocks\u00e5 p\u00e5 Beduin Experience<\/em>.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Att bes\u00f6ka en beduinfamilj<\/h2>\n

Turistgruppen bes\u00f6ker en beduinfamilj. Ena dagen bakar man br\u00f6d. N\u00e4sta v\u00e4ver man t\u00e4lt av geth\u00e5r. Min eftermiddag p\u00e5 plats \u00e4r det kaffe-cermonin som st\u00e5r i fokus.<\/p>\n

Ska man f\u00f6lja med? \u00c4r det genuint? Eller ett spektakel?<\/p>\n

Men jag \u00e4r hungrig p\u00e5 upplevelser och har best\u00e4mt mig att go all in under min vistelse p\u00e5 Feynan Ecolodge. Prova alla tillg\u00e4ngliga aktiviteter. De ing\u00e5r alla i priset och det visar sig bli fullt schema hela mitt dygn. Inte s\u00e5 mycket tid att sitta p\u00e5 rummet och fundera. Men det \u00e4r ju heller inte d\u00e4rf\u00f6r jag \u00e4r h\u00e4r.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Vi \u00e4r 20 turister ungef\u00e4r. V\u00e5r guide i 30-\u00e5rs \u00e5ldern stannar gruppen f\u00f6rsta g\u00e5ngen bara ett stenkast fr\u00e5n lodgen. ”H\u00e4r uppe i t\u00e4ltet ni ser bor min familj. Det \u00e4r min mamma ni ser g\u00e5 d\u00e4r borta.”<\/em>
\nHan kan \u00e4ven peka ut sin exakta f\u00f6delseplats. \u201dD\u00e4r huvudet f\u00f6rst slog i marken\u201d. Men idag \u00e4r det inte hans egen familj som ska st\u00e5 v\u00e4rd. Uppgiften alternerar mellan byns familjer. 3 Dinarer per bes\u00f6kare betalar vi f\u00f6r Beduine Experience och dessa pengar g\u00e5r oavkortat tillbaka till familjen.<\/p>\n

Dagens familj bor i st\u00e4llet lite l\u00e4ngre bort. Vi f\u00e5r l\u00e5na deras uteplats med behagligt skuggande oleanerkvistar som tak. Sitter p\u00e5 v\u00e4vda mattor i en fyrkant. Familjen har tillf\u00e4lligt makat ut sig en bit bort. En av s\u00f6nerna rostar kaffeb\u00f6norna och serverar. Barnen stryker nyfiket runt oss.<\/p>\n

\"Feynan<\/p>\n

V\u00e5r guide ber\u00e4ttar:<\/p>\n

N\u00e4rhelst en g\u00e4st anl\u00e4nder till en beduinfamilj serveras kaffe. Men aldrig annars. G\u00e4st och kaffe \u00e4r synonymt. G\u00e4stfrihet \u00e4r en sj\u00e4lvklarhet. \u00c4ven vad g\u00e4ller fr\u00e4mlingar. N\u00e4sta g\u00e5ng \u00e4r det man sj\u00e4lv som beh\u00f6ver mat och vila. Lika sj\u00e4lvklart som att den som man en g\u00e5ng tagit emot mat och dryck och husrum av, den pratar man alltid v\u00e4l om.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

N\u00e4r b\u00f6norna rostats, ska de malas i m\u00e4ssingsmortel. Ljudet n\u00e4r mortelns st\u00f6t sl\u00e5r mot kanterna, signalerar kaffe till alla grannar. En g\u00e4st i n\u00e5gons t\u00e4lt betyder att alla \u00e4r v\u00e4lkomna p\u00e5 kaffe.<\/p>\n

Man bjuds p\u00e5 kaffe och h\u00e5ller koppen i h\u00f6ger hand. Koppen fylls p\u00e5 om man inte skakar koppen. Maximalt tre koppar f\u00e5r man. Endast vid blodsh\u00e4md bjuds en fj\u00e4rde kopp. Och den som accepterar d\u00e5 f\u00e5r inte vila f\u00f6rr\u00e4n h\u00e4mnd tagits.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\u00c4ktenskap och frieri<\/h2>\n

Vid frieri bjuds det p\u00e5 kaffe. Att dricka ur sin kopp inneb\u00e4r att acceptera erbjudandet. Man tar med sig ett f\u00f6lje av personer som kan g\u00e5 som garant f\u00f6r att man \u00e4r en respektabel person. Som kommer fr\u00e5n en klan och familj med hedern i beh\u00e5ll.<\/p>\n

Avtal om \u00e4ktenskap kommer med brudpris och ofta en i f\u00f6rv\u00e4g uppgjort deal vid skilsm\u00e4ssa. Till exempel; bruden ska ha 40.000 kr och ett eget t\u00e4lt.<\/p>\n

\"Feynan<\/p>\n

Utfall att det v\u00e4rsta skulle h\u00e4nda. Men skilsm\u00e4ssa \u00e4r det v\u00e4rsta man vet. Det ska till varje pris undvikas. Nu med m\u00e5nga syriska flyktingar i ekonomisk kris har det blivit vanligt att m\u00e4n kommer fr\u00e5n gulf-staterna och erbjuder \u00e4ktenskap, betalar sitt brudpris och skiljer sig efter n\u00e5gra m\u00e5nader. En stor skam f\u00f6r alla.<\/p>\n

Vi dricker and\u00e4ktigt v\u00e5rt kaffe tillsammans med historierna. Jag ocks\u00e5. Jag som inte dricker kaffe. Gl\u00f6mmer att skaka koppen och f\u00e5r en till av bara farten.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"
\n\"\"<\/p>\n

Solnedg\u00e5ng och stj\u00e4rnor<\/h2>\n

Vi tackar f\u00f6r oss hos familjen och vandrar vidare. Hittar ett berg d\u00e4r utsikten mot solnedg\u00e5ngen \u00e4r fri. Vandrar hem\u00e5t i skymningen och b\u00f6neutroparens m\u00e4ssande.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Hundratals stearinljus \u00e4r t\u00e4nda nu p\u00e5 lodgen, d\u00e4r inget elektriskt ljus finns. Och middagen st\u00e5r f\u00e4rdig i matsalen. Vegetarisk buff\u00e9, alltid vegetarisk buff\u00e9 p\u00e5 Feynan Ecolodge.<\/p>\n

Sedan g\u00e5r vi upp och l\u00e4gger oss p\u00e5 taket. P\u00e5 varsin madrass. Stj\u00e4rnhimlen \u00e4r s\u00e5 stor h\u00e4rifr\u00e5n. S\u00e5 vidunderligt stor att man m\u00e5ste fundera lite \u00f6ver vem man sj\u00e4lv \u00e4r i allt det h\u00e4r. Var man h\u00f6r hemma i detta v\u00e4ldiga. Vi f\u00e5r en stj\u00e4rngenomg\u00e5ng ocks\u00e5. Allt utg\u00e5r fr\u00e5n Karlavagnen. Via den kan man hitta de andra. Polstj\u00e4rnan, Morgonstj\u00e4rnan, Lejonet och Tvillingarna.<\/p>\n

Jag ska komma ih\u00e5g det h\u00e4r, best\u00e4mmer jag mig f\u00f6r. Det ska jag verkligen.<\/p>\n

\"Feynan
\n\"Feynan
\n\"\"<\/p>\n

Min alldeles egna beduin<\/h2>\n

N\u00e4sta morgon g\u00f6r jag min vandring. \u00c4ter en sista vegetarisk lunchbuff\u00e9, som f\u00f6rst\u00e5s ing\u00e5r den ocks\u00e5.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"
\n\"\"<\/p>\n

Min beduin som skjutsar mig tillbaka till civilisationen, vill s\u00e5 g\u00e4rna att jag ska sitta i fram. 2 madame, s\u00e4ger han lyckligt. Och h\u00e5ller upp tv\u00e5 fingerar s\u00e5 att det blir tydligt. En h\u00e4r. Pekar p\u00e5 mig. Och en d\u00e4r. Pekar hem\u00e5t. Till det egna t\u00e4ltet och frun hemma. Skrattar gott \u00e5t sitt eget sk\u00e4mt. Plockar upp tv\u00e5 sm\u00e5 skrynkliga b\u00e4r ur sin ficka p\u00e5 s\u00e4rken.<\/p>\n

Eskadenia<\/em>, tar jag senare reda p\u00e5 att de heter.<\/p>\n

\u00c4ter en, spottar k\u00e4rnan genom det \u00f6ppna jeepf\u00f6nstret. H\u00e5ller upp den andra mot mig.<\/p>\n

Jag tar den lilla skrynkliga frukten ur hans f\u00e5rade hand. Den som f\u00f6rmodligen hanterat getter och f\u00e5r under dagen. Fr\u00e5n fickan p\u00e5 s\u00e4rken som tv\u00e4ttats gud vet n\u00e4r och stoppar i munnen. Frukten smakar s\u00f6tt och annorlunda. Lite aprikos. Men \u00e4nd\u00e5 inte. Jag spottar k\u00e4rnan genom f\u00f6nstret. Och t\u00e4nker att nu h\u00e4nder det nog, nu blir jag magsjuk. Men i s\u00e5 fall \u00e4r det s\u00e5<\/em> v\u00e4rt det.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Feynan Ecolodge<\/h2>\n

Feynan Ecolodge skapades av the\u00a0Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature och var det f\u00f6rsta av sitt slag i Jordanien. inspirationen till lodgen kom fr\u00e5n de g\u00e4stgiverier som byggdes upp l\u00e5ngt tillbaka i tiden l\u00e4ngs de l\u00e5ngv\u00e4ga handelsv\u00e4gar som d\u00e5 fanns i denna del av v\u00e4rlden.<\/p>\n

Feynan Ecolodge anv\u00e4nder minimalt med elektricitet och genererar denna sj\u00e4lv genom sina m\u00e5nga solpanelen. Man renar ocks\u00e5 sitt eget vatten. Man arbetar p\u00e5 ett s\u00e4tt som gynnar de lokala beduinstammarna och ger dem m\u00f6jlighet till inkomst och f\u00f6rs\u00f6rjning.<\/p>\n

Ett dygn kostar ca 2000 kr\/ 2 personer och d\u00e5 ing\u00e5r tv\u00e5 luncher och en middag, samt alla utflykter. Transfer med 4-hjulsdrivet samt 20 kr\/person till beduinerna om man v\u00e4ljer att bes\u00f6ka dem, kostar extra. All mat som serveras p\u00e5 Feynan Ecolodge \u00e4r vegetarisk och alkohol serveras inte.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

L\u00e4s alla mina inl\u00e4gg fr\u00e5n Jordanien h\u00e4r.<\/a><\/p>\n

\u00c4lskar du ocks\u00e5 h\u00e4rliga hotell? Gl\u00f6m inte att gilla 4000mil p\u00e5 Facebook<\/a>.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Feynan Ecolodge. En k\u00e4ndis. Och en doldis samtidigt. Omskriven av De Stora Internationella Resemagasinen. Men bortanf\u00f6r allfarv\u00e4garna \u00e4nd\u00e5. Mainstreamturisten i Jordanien kommer inte hit. Kan kanske inte, f\u00f6r h\u00e4r \u00e4r alltid fullbokat i de 20 rummen. H\u00f6g svansf\u00f6ring. Och ambition. Egna solceller. Egen vattenrening och refill. Inga eng\u00e5ngsflaskor. Den lokala […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":26679,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[219,1505],"tags":[12710,364,965],"class_list":["post-26521","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-hotel-varda-en-omvag","category-jordanien","tag-hallbart-resande","tag-hotell","tag-utflykt"],"yoast_head":"\nFeynan Ecolodge - n\u00e4r man hittar ett hotell som helt enkelt kr\u00e4ver ett eget inl\u00e4gg<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Feynan Ecolodge. En k\u00e4ndis. Och en doldis samtidigt. Omskriven av De Stora Internationella Resemagasinen. Men bortanf\u00f6r allfarv\u00e4garna \u00e4nd\u00e5.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/4000mil.se\/index.php\/feynan-ecolodge-hotell\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"sv_SE\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Feynan Ecolodge - n\u00e4r man hittar ett hotell som helt enkelt kr\u00e4ver ett eget inl\u00e4gg\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Feynan Ecolodge. En k\u00e4ndis. Och en doldis samtidigt. Omskriven av De Stora Internationella Resemagasinen. 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