{"id":26547,"date":"2019-05-09T06:46:00","date_gmt":"2019-05-09T04:46:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/4000mil.se\/?p=26547"},"modified":"2020-10-10T22:47:47","modified_gmt":"2020-10-10T20:47:47","slug":"vandring-i-jordanien-wadi-ghwayr","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/4000mil.se\/index.php\/vandring-i-jordanien-wadi-ghwayr\/","title":{"rendered":"Vandring i Jordanien – med bl\u00f6ta f\u00f6tter i Wadi Ghwayr"},"content":{"rendered":"

Hur \u00e4r det med vandring i Jordanien? Kan man verkligen vandra d\u00e4r?<\/p>\n

Klart man kan. Dock kanske inte optimalt mitt ute i Jordaniens v\u00e4ldiga \u00f6kenomr\u00e5den och tr\u00e4dl\u00f6sa sl\u00e4tter. Och framf\u00f6r allt inte mitt i sommaren. Men Jordanien \u00e4r ocks\u00e5 hemvist \u00e5t m\u00e5nga wadi\u00b4s och och inte minst siq\u00b4s. D.v.s. dalg\u00e5ngar och kanjons. P\u00e5 v\u00e5ren \u00e4r botten av dessa, om man har tur, fyllda av en eller annan porlande b\u00e4ck. Och kanske \u00e4ven med gr\u00f6nska.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Nej h\u00e4r vandrar man inte g\u00e4rna<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Jag genomf\u00f6r min vandring fr\u00e5n Feynan Ecolodge<\/a> (lugn bara lugn, inl\u00e4gg kommer) i den lilla dalg\u00e5ngen, snarast ravinen, Wadi Ghwayr. Wadi Ghwayr kan g\u00f6ras p\u00e5 tv\u00e5 s\u00e4tt. Antingen hela den 8 timmar l\u00e5nga vandringen l\u00e4ngs hela ravinen. Denna vandring betecknas som sv\u00e5r och kr\u00e4ver en del kl\u00e4ttring. Eller s\u00e5 g\u00f6r man det l\u00e4tt f\u00f6r sig, som jag idag och g\u00e5r bara den nedre delen, 4 timmar fram och \u00e5ter. Man v\u00e4nder helt enkelt d\u00e4r kl\u00e4ttringen b\u00f6rjar.<\/p>\n

P\u00e5 Beduine Experience<\/em><\/strong> kv\u00e4llen innan tr\u00e4ffar jag en svensk familj. De har gjort Wadi Ghwayr p\u00e5 f\u00f6rmiddagen och kan tipsa mig om sandaler. Och d\u00e4r avg\u00f6rs v\u00e4l i m\u00e5ngt och mycket hela min vandringsupplevelse.<\/p>\n

I gympaskor hade f\u00f6tter och skor snart blivit genombl\u00f6ta. F\u00f6r att g\u00e5 i vattenf\u00e5ran, den g\u00e5r inte att undvika i april. Vandringsk\u00e4ngor (som jag f\u00f6r \u00f6vrigt inte ens hade med mig p\u00e5 resan) hade bara blivit varmt. Med vattent\u00e5liga sandaler p\u00e5 f\u00f6tterna gick jag i stort sett hela vandringen med f\u00f6tterna i str\u00f6mf\u00e5ran. Eftersom f\u00f6tterna hela tiden svalkades av det uppfriskande k\u00e4llvattnet, blev jag aldrig det minsta varm under vandringen, trots att vi hade 34 grader i skuggan dagen till \u00e4ra.<\/p>\n

\"Vandring<\/p>\n

Vandringen b\u00f6rjar (och slutar f\u00f6r den delen) med en jeeptur. Byns beduiner hj\u00e4lper mer \u00e4n g\u00e4rna till med skjuts f\u00f6r en liten peng. Det \u00e4r jag och en holl\u00e4ndsk familj som t\u00e4nkt sig att vandra Wadi Ghwayr i dag. Vi skumpar fram i den torra flodf\u00e5ran en bra bit innan vi slutligen blir avsl\u00e4ppta och f\u00e5r b\u00f6rja g\u00e5 sj\u00e4lva.<\/p>\n

– Jag h\u00e4mtar er klockan 1, s\u00e4ger v\u00e5r beduinchauff\u00f6r och visar \u00f6vertydligt genom att h\u00e5lla upp ett pekfinger. D.v.s. mot den holl\u00e4ndske mannen. Oss \u00f6vriga kvinnfolk l\u00e5tsas han inte om.<\/p>\n

\"Vandring
\n\"Vandring
\n\"Vandring<\/p>\n

Jag bes\u00f6ker Jordanien den veckan som den intensivt cerisea oleander-busken blommar. Vattnet porlar l\u00e4ngs mina f\u00f6tter. Det som f\u00f6rser hela Dana-dalen med liv. Vandringen lutar f\u00f6rst\u00e5s lite upp\u00e5t, annars skulle ju b\u00e4cken inte kunna porla, men det \u00e4r marginellt. Bergen reser sig dramatiskt p\u00e5 alla sidor om mig. Den holl\u00e4ndska familjen har jag h\u00e4ngt av vid det h\u00e4r laget. De har gympaskor och kan inte h\u00e5lla min takt. Pl\u00f6tsligt st\u00e5r en sk\u00f6ldpadda i min v\u00e4g. Jag fotar omsorgsfullt och sjasar sen iv\u00e4g den. F\u00f6r hur kan jag veta om n\u00e4sta vandrare \u00e4r lika fredligt inst\u00e4lld som jag?<\/p>\n

\"\"
\n\"\"<\/p>\n

En och en halv timme hinner g\u00e5 och jag hinner b\u00f6rja fundera p\u00e5 var jag ska v\u00e4nda, innan min wadi \u00e4ndrar karakt\u00e4r. Nu blir det en riktigt kanjon d\u00e4r vattnet gr\u00f6pt ur berget och sidorna \u00e4r lodr\u00e4ta och samtidigt b\u00f6ljande. Sedan tar vandringen slut i ett litet, litet vattenfall. F\u00f6r att komma vidare m\u00e5ste man kl\u00e4ttra p\u00e5 de hala klipporna. Jag f\u00f6rst\u00e5s att det \u00e4r h\u00e4r jag ska v\u00e4nda.<\/p>\n

\"Vandring
\n\"\"
\n\"\"
\n\"Vandring<\/p>\n

H\u00e4mtningen \u00e4r ju f\u00f6rst klockan 1, s\u00e5 p\u00e5 tillbakav\u00e4g kan tar jag det lugnare. Unnar mig raster med ansiktet mot solen och f\u00f6tterna i vattnet.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

– H\u00e4r skulle jag valla mina getter om jag hade n\u00e5gra, hinner jag precis t\u00e4nka innan den f\u00f6rsta gethjorden kommer mot mig. Ackompanjerade av en \u00e5sneridande herde. Vi m\u00f6ts mitt p\u00e5 stigen och herden \u00e4r s\u00e5 glad, s\u00e5 glad att se mig. Han vill prata lite, fast\u00e4n v\u00e5rt spr\u00e5k inte \u00e4r gemensamt. S\u00e5 vi byter n\u00e5gra ord \u00e4nd\u00e5, fast\u00e4n vi inte borde kunna, ler glatt och nickar entusiastiskt \u00e5t varandra. Han har tv\u00e5 gula t\u00e4nder kvar. Jag kan inte f\u00f6rm\u00e5 mig till att ta upp min kamera. Jag vill inte att den h\u00e4r herdens entusiasm ska f\u00f6rbytas i turisttr\u00f6tthet. F\u00f6r allt i v\u00e4rlden vill jag inte det. S\u00e5 jag l\u00e5ter kameran h\u00e4nga kvar runt halsen. Och l\u00e5ter v\u00e5rt m\u00f6te f\u00e5r ske bara h\u00e4r och nu.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

L\u00e4s alla mina inl\u00e4gg fr\u00e5n Jordanien h\u00e4r.<\/a><\/p>\n

L\u00e4s om fler vandringar h\u00e4r.<\/a><\/p>\n

Gillar du ocks\u00e5 att vandra p\u00e5 resan? Gl\u00f6m d\u00e5 inte att gilla 4000mil p\u00e5 Facebook.<\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Hur \u00e4r det med vandring i Jordanien? Kan man verkligen vandra d\u00e4r? Klart man kan. Dock kanske inte optimalt mitt ute i Jordaniens v\u00e4ldiga \u00f6kenomr\u00e5den och tr\u00e4dl\u00f6sa sl\u00e4tter. Och framf\u00f6r allt inte mitt i sommaren. Men Jordanien \u00e4r ocks\u00e5 hemvist \u00e5t m\u00e5nga wadi\u00b4s och och inte minst siq\u00b4s. D.v.s. dalg\u00e5ngar […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":26551,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1505,2],"tags":[12684],"class_list":["post-26547","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-jordanien","category-vandring","tag-vandring-i-varlden"],"yoast_head":"\nVandring i Jordanien - med bl\u00f6ta f\u00f6tter i Wadi Ghwayr<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Jag g\u00f6r en vandring i Jordanien. Genom den lilla ravinen Wadi Ghwayr i Dana Biosphere Reserve. Oleandern blommar och b\u00e4cken prolar. 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