{"id":35989,"date":"2020-07-03T07:30:00","date_gmt":"2020-07-03T05:30:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/4000mil.se\/?p=35989"},"modified":"2026-05-06T20:18:50","modified_gmt":"2026-05-06T18:18:50","slug":"skeppsmalen-och-skagsudde-hoga-kustens-norra-utpost","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/4000mil.se\/index.php\/skeppsmalen-och-skagsudde-hoga-kustens-norra-utpost\/","title":{"rendered":"Skeppsmalen och Skagsudde – H\u00f6ga kustens norra utpost"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Skeppsmalen. 17 \u00e5r som Ume\u00e5bor tar det f\u00f6r oss att hitta hit \u00e4nd\u00e5. Fast\u00e4n det \u00e4r mindre \u00e4n 1,5 timmes k\u00f6rv\u00e4g. En kollega n\u00e4mner fiskel\u00e4get f\u00f6r 10 \u00e5r sedan, med f\u00f6rv\u00e5ning i r\u00f6sten. ”Har ni sett skylten vid E4:an? Vi \u00e5kte in och det var ju j\u00e4ttefint d\u00e4r nere”<\/em>. Jag l\u00e4gger p\u00e5 minnet, gillar ju nya platser. B\u00f6rjar l\u00e4gga m\u00e4rke till den d\u00e4r skylten vid E4:an strax norr om \u00d6vik. \u00c5ren g\u00e5r. Varje sommar \u00e4r ju s\u00e5 kort. Och redan s\u00e5 fylld av \u00e4ventyr. Resor och flackande runt Europa och v\u00e4rlden.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Skeppsmalen<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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Det kr\u00e4vs en pandemi och ett resef\u00f6rbud f\u00f6r att tid pl\u00f6tsligt ska trollas fram. Och f\u00f6r det n\u00e4ra att bli m\u00e4rkv\u00e4rdigt och angel\u00e4get att bes\u00f6ka. Vi packar ryggorna en solig junidag och beger oss mot Skeppsmalen. F\u00f6ruts\u00e4ttningsl\u00f6st, som det heter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"skagsudde\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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Restaurang Fiskevistet och Surstr\u00f6mmingsmuseet i Skeppsmalen<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Var sak har sin tid. F\u00f6rst b\u00f6rjar vi f\u00f6rst\u00e5s med att \u00e4ta. Restaurang Fiskevistet har till v\u00e5r besvikelse inte havsutsikt, men v\u00e4l surstr\u00f6mming och surstr\u00f6mmingspizza p\u00e5 menyn. Hur kan man inte \u00e4lska ett s\u00e5nt st\u00e4lle? Vi n\u00f6jer oss dock med varsin vanlig pizza, man har inga problem med att trolla fram en vegetarisk variant till mig, trots att ingen finns p\u00e5 menyn.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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I anslutning till restaurangen finns \u00e4ven surstr\u00f6mmingsmuseet. Betalning av intr\u00e4de 30 kr p\u00e5 eget samvete, swisch finns. Mest en kul grej, t\u00e4nkte jag innan, men museet \u00e4r ov\u00e4ntat intressant. Vi ser en film om hur tillverkningen av surstr\u00f6mmingen g\u00e5r till. Att behandla str\u00f6mmingen p\u00e5 n\u00e5got s\u00e4tt var en absolut n\u00f6dv\u00e4ndighet f\u00f6r att kunna s\u00e4lja sin fisk. En fisk som fiskats p\u00e5 morgonen ans\u00e5gs utan konserveringsmetod som otj\u00e4nlig redan vid 12 p\u00e5 dagen. Exakt r\u00e4tt proportioner av r\u00e5varan, str\u00f6mming, salt och vatten startar en naturlig j\u00e4sningsprocess. Och voala, surstr\u00f6mmingen \u00e4r f\u00f6dd.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Skeppsmalen<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Om G\u00e4vle-fiskarna finns ocks\u00e5 att l\u00e4sa. Extra intressant f\u00f6r mig som \u00e4r uppv\u00e4xt i G\u00e4vle. Att det var dessa som kom upp med sina fiskeb\u00e5tar och grundade hela H\u00f6ga kusten visste jag inte tidigare. ”Inte undra p\u00e5 att det blev s\u00e5 vackert”, h\u00e5ller jag s\u00e5 n\u00e4r p\u00e5 att utbrista. Men jag har ju aldrig varit lokalpatriot f\u00f6r G\u00e4vles r\u00e4kning f\u00f6rut, s\u00e5 jag ska v\u00e4l inte b\u00f6rja nu ”p\u00e5 gamla dar” heller.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Fiskel\u00e4get Skeppsmalen<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

N\u00e4r vi \u00e4r f\u00e4rdiga med museet r\u00f6r vi oss mot fiskl\u00e4get. H\u00e4r finns ett kapell och en bevarad fiskestuga som tillh\u00f6rt G\u00e4vlefiskare Erik H\u00f6gberg. Vi f\u00e5r stiga p\u00e5 och se hur trivsamt han och hans familj hade det.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Skeppsmalen<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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\"Skeppsmalen<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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Fiskel\u00e4get sj\u00e4lvt \u00e4r s\u00e5 s\u00f6tt att man vill ta med det hem i passaten och g\u00f6ra ett dockhus av det.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Skeppsmalen<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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\"Skeppsmalen<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Skeppsmalen<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Skeppsmalen<\/figure>\n\n\n\n


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\"Skeppsmalen
Skeppsmalen \u00e4r bed\u00e5rande!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Fyren Skagsudde<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Sen har vi fyren kvar ocks\u00e5. Skagsudde. Episk programpunkt i Sj\u00f6rapporten. Ligger den h\u00e4r allts\u00e5? Vi st\u00f6ter snart nog p\u00e5 en alternativ stig, Fyrstigen<\/em><\/strong>. Den ska man absolut ta, f\u00f6r medan stora v\u00e4gen upp till fyren \u00e4r helt ocharmig, \u00e4r denna stig fantastiskt vacker med utsikt \u00f6ver fiskel\u00e4gets inlopp, klipporna och havet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Skeppsmalen<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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\"Skeppsmalen<\/figure>\n\n\n\n


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Framme vid fyren efter n\u00e5gon halvtimmes promenad och oupph\u00f6rliga fotostopp, leder \u00e4ven S\u00e4lj\u00e4garstigen<\/em> <\/strong>vidare l\u00e4ngs klipporna, f\u00f6r den som vill ha \u00e4nnu mer av samma vara. Vi v\u00e4ljer dock ”tr\u00f6kv\u00e4gen” tillbaka till fiskel\u00e4get, f\u00f6r vi vill ju prova Lotsstigen<\/em><\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"skagsudde\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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Lotsstigen<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Lotsstigen<\/em> <\/strong>utg\u00e5r fr\u00e5n utsiktspunkten bakom Erik H\u00f6gbergs stuga. Det \u00e4r en 9 kilometer l\u00e5ng kustn\u00e4ra vandringsstig som leder fr\u00e5n Skeppsmalen mot \u00d6rnsk\u00f6ldsviks-h\u00e5llet till sommarstugeomr\u00e5det Stubbsand. Vi provar leden en bit och v\u00e4nder sedan tillbaka. Men \u00e4r s\u00e5 nyfikna p\u00e5 labyrinten i slutet p\u00e5 leden att vi tar bilen runt till Stubbsand och vandrar en bit d\u00e4rifr\u00e5n ocks\u00e5. Hittar labyrinten som ligger vackert uppe p\u00e5 klipporna i eftermiddagssolen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vilken heldag det blev vid Skeppsmalen. Och t\u00e4nk att det tog 17 \u00e5r att ta sig hit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Skeppsmalen<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Skeppsmalen<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Skeppsmalen<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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L\u00e4s ocks\u00e5: <\/strong>25 saker att se och g\u00f6ra vid H\u00f6ga kusten \u2013 stor guide med v\u00e5ra b\u00e4sta tips<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Missa inga inl\u00e4gg. Gl\u00f6m inte att\u00a0f\u00f6lja 4000mil p\u00e5 Facebook<\/a>\u00a0och\u00a0p\u00e5 Instagram<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Skeppsmalen. 17 \u00e5r som Ume\u00e5bor tar det f\u00f6r oss att hitta hit \u00e4nd\u00e5. Fast\u00e4n det \u00e4r mindre \u00e4n 1,5 timmes k\u00f6rv\u00e4g. En kollega n\u00e4mner fiskel\u00e4get f\u00f6r 10 \u00e5r sedan, med f\u00f6rv\u00e5ning i r\u00f6sten. ”Har ni sett skylten vid E4:an? Vi \u00e5kte in och det var ju j\u00e4ttefint d\u00e4r nere”. Jag […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":35972,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8,2],"tags":[93,842],"class_list":["post-35989","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-sverige","category-vandring","tag-hoga-kusten","tag-norrland"],"yoast_head":"\nSkeppsmalen och Skagsudde - H\u00f6ga kustens norra utpost<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Skeppsmalen. 17 \u00e5r som Ume\u00e5bor tar det f\u00f6r oss att hitta hit \u00e4nd\u00e5. Fast\u00e4n det \u00e4r mindre \u00e4n 1,5 timmes k\u00f6rv\u00e4g. 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