{"id":38254,"date":"2020-09-12T08:00:00","date_gmt":"2020-09-12T06:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/4000mil.se\/?p=38254"},"modified":"2022-05-28T12:15:47","modified_gmt":"2022-05-28T10:15:47","slug":"vandring-i-sonfjallets-nationalpark","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/4000mil.se\/index.php\/vandring-i-sonfjallets-nationalpark\/","title":{"rendered":"Vandring i Sonfj\u00e4llets Nationalpark – den perfekta dagsvandringen?"},"content":{"rendered":"

Vandring i Sonfj\u00e4llets Nationalpark<\/em><\/p>\n

Det blir n\u00e4sta overload i huvudet p\u00e5 oss n\u00e4r vi v\u00e4l best\u00e4mt oss att det \u00e4r till H\u00e4rjedalen vi ska \u00e5ka p\u00e5 den d\u00e4r l\u00e5nghelgen. F\u00f6r det finns ju s\u00e5 m\u00e5nga vandringsalternativ. Och s\u00e5 lite tid. Endast 2 vandringsdagar har vi. Vi vet att vi landar i \u00c5sarna p\u00e5 torsdagskv\u00e4ll. F\u00f6r att det \u00e4r s\u00e5 l\u00e5ngt vi tror oss om att kunna ta oss efter jobbet. 5 timmar och 19 minuters k\u00f6rning. Och ska efter avslutad vandring fredag \u00e5ka vidare till n\u00e4sta boende i Fj\u00e4lln\u00e4s. Sp\u00e5ren leder till Sonfj\u00e4llets nationalpark, bel\u00e4gen strax s\u00f6der om Vemdalen. 1 timme fr\u00e5n \u00c5sarna och 1,5 timme fr\u00e5n Fj\u00e4lln\u00e4s. Den perfekta logistiken.<\/p>\n

\"Vandring<\/p>\n

Sonfj\u00e4llets nationalpark<\/h2>\n

Sonfj\u00e4llet \u00e4r en av Europas \u00e4ldsta nationalparker, grundades redan 1909. Nationalparken \u00e4r relativt liten, ett fj\u00e4ll i mitten liksom, Sonfj\u00e4llet och s\u00e5 ett omr\u00e5de runt. Egentligen finns bara tv\u00e5 vandringsleder, f\u00f6rutom n\u00e5gra kortare promenader. Toppbestigningen<\/i> och Sonfj\u00e4llet<\/i> runt<\/i>. Varav vi v\u00e4ljer den andra.<\/p>\n

\"Vandring
Moln eller dimma?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

V\u00e5r vandring Sonfj\u00e4llet runt<\/h2>\n

Vandringen b\u00f6rjar vid en f\u00e4bod. Nyvallens f\u00e4bod. Vi f\u00f6rst\u00e5r av skyltarna att p\u00e5 sommaren \u00e4r det full kommers h\u00e4r. Kaf\u00e9, f\u00f6rs\u00e4ljning av ost, k\u00f6tt, korv, sm\u00f6r och lingonsylt. Nu \u00e4r det h\u00f6st och st\u00e4ngt och l\u00e5st. N\u00e5gra bilar st\u00e5r parkerade, men inte m\u00e5nga. Det \u00e4r tydligt att inte s\u00e5 m\u00e5nga t\u00e4nkt sig att vandra i Sonfj\u00e4llet idag.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

V\u00e5r vandring g\u00e5r allts\u00e5 runt i en cirkel runt Sonfj\u00e4llet. P\u00e5 m\u00e5f\u00e5 v\u00e4ljer vi h\u00f6gervarv f\u00f6r v\u00e5r vandring. Vi b\u00f6rjar uppf\u00f6r genom skogen. En tydlig orange ledmarkering som \u00e4r sv\u00e5rt att missa finns. Men ingen skyltning. Via kartan ser vi dock att vi g\u00e5r p\u00e5 r\u00e4tt led. Ovanf\u00f6r tr\u00e4dgr\u00e4nsen, med utsikt norrut tillbaka \u00f6ver f\u00e4boden, v\u00e4gen och Vemdalen, delar sig snart stigen. Igen ingen skyltning, men vi ser p\u00e5 kartan att vi ska h\u00e5lla h\u00f6ger och att den v\u00e4nstra stigen b\u00f6r leda upp p\u00e5 toppen.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Precis till h\u00f6ger om oss har vi den lilla toppen, Lillfj\u00e4llet.<\/p>\n

\"Vandring
D\u00e4r g\u00e5r leden upp mot toppen.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Lillfj\u00e4llets topp<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Vi rundar fj\u00e4llet lite och b\u00f6rjar stiga upp\u00e5t fr\u00e5n v\u00e4stsidan. Det blir kl\u00e4ttring bland stora stenblock. Nu rullar dimman in. Eller \u00e4r det vi som helt enkelt stiger upp i molnen? Vi konstaterar att det \u00e4r tur att ledmarkeringen \u00e4r just orange, den f\u00e4rg som f\u00f6rmodligen syns allra b\u00e4st i dimma. Det \u00e4r just s\u00e5 pass att n\u00e4r man n\u00e5r en orange markering, s\u00e5 ser man n\u00e4sta.<\/p>\n

\"\"\"\"<\/p>\n

Vi k\u00e4nner oss som tv\u00e5 mycket sm\u00e5 hobbitar, i f\u00e4rd med att kl\u00e4ttra upp i Mordor. Denna sten\u00f6ken \u00e4r sp\u00f6klik och dramatisk och dimman tillf\u00f6r en extra dimension av \u00e4ventyr och underg\u00e5ngsst\u00e4mning.<\/p>\n

S\u00e5 ser vi pl\u00f6tsligt tv\u00e5 siluetter i dimman ovanf\u00f6r oss. Kommer upp p\u00e5 n\u00e5got som skulle kunna visa sig vara en plat\u00e5 i v\u00e5r sten\u00f6ken. Som dimman nu ligger vet man inte s\u00e5 noga. Siluetterna tilltalar oss. P\u00e5 stockholmska.
\n– Vart \u00e4r ni p\u00e5 v\u00e4g?
\n– Dit\u00e5t, vi pekar lite fr\u00e5gande fram\u00e5t i ledens riktning. F\u00f6r fr\u00e5gan k\u00e4nns lite udda \u00e4nd\u00e5. Oftast om man kommer l\u00e4ngs en led, avser man ju att forts\u00e4tta. Snarare \u00e4n att g\u00e5 tillbaka?<\/p>\n

\"Vandring
Vandring i Sonfj\u00e4llets Nationalpark<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

– \u00c4r toppen dit\u00e5t? Vi gick en bit men det b\u00f6rjade luta ned\u00e5t.
\nAha, de menar s\u00e5.
\n– Nej vi \u00e4r p\u00e5 v\u00e4g Sonfj\u00e4llet runt. Om man velat upp p\u00e5 toppen skulle man ha sv\u00e4ngt i v\u00e4gsk\u00e4let p\u00e5 norra sidan. D\u00e4r varningsskylten om stenras fanns, ni vet?<\/p>\n

Stockholmarna ser snopna ut.
\n– Ja, sa ju det, s\u00e4ger han som kan vara sonen till den andre. De ser tveksamma ut. Den h\u00e4r dimman, om den blir v\u00e4rre s\u00e5 hittar man v\u00e4l inte tillbaka ner? Nej, d\u00e5 ser man inte v\u00e4gen, men man vet ju att bilparkeringen \u00e4r norrut, s\u00e5 det \u00e4r lugnt. S\u00e4ger vi hj\u00e4lpsamt. Bara att ta ut riktning p\u00e5 kompassen och frig\u00e5 i v\u00e4rsta fall. Vi pekar med rak arm norrut, som hj\u00e4lp p\u00e5 traven. De ser fortfarande tveksamma ut.
\n– Det ska klarna upp vid tv\u00e5, kommer jag p\u00e5 f\u00f6r att l\u00e4tta upp st\u00e4mningen lite.
\n– Vi f\u00e5r v\u00e4l s\u00e4tta oss ner h\u00e4r och v\u00e4nta tills dess d\u00e5, s\u00e4ger far och son.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Karta och kompass. Inte s\u00e5 tokigt \u00e4nd\u00e5. Mer \u00e4n bara en bra-att-ha-grej kanske? Men Sonfj\u00e4llet nationalpark \u00e4r ju just inte st\u00f6rre \u00e4n Tantolunden. S\u00e5 de hittar s\u00e4kert ut. Vad det lider.<\/p>\n

Sj\u00e4lva vandrar vi vidare. En orange ledmarkering i taget. Leden g\u00e5r som sagt svagt ned\u00e5t nu. S\u00e5 upph\u00f6r stenblocken och fram tr\u00e4der fj\u00e4llheden, f\u00f6r dagen kl\u00e4dd i r\u00f6tt lingonris och m\u00f6rklila bl\u00e5b\u00e4r. Och voil\u00e0, dimman glider \u00e5t sidan och en fj\u00e4lldal \u00f6ppnas framf\u00f6r oss.<\/p>\n

\"Vandring \"\"<\/p>\n

Vi vandrar ned\u00e5t l\u00e4ngs en uttorkad fj\u00e4ll\u00e5f\u00e5ra. M\u00f6ter ett st\u00f6rre s\u00e4llskap l\u00e4ngst ner.
\n– Har ni sett bj\u00f6rn? vill de veta. Just ja, detta \u00e4r ju Sveriges bj\u00f6rnrikaste omr\u00e5de.
\n– Nej, s\u00e4ger vi, men vi s\u00e5g bara handen framf\u00f6r oss, s\u00e5 han kan ha st\u00e5tt bara 3 meter bort och tittat p\u00e5 oss.
\n– Ni f\u00e5r granska fotona noga n\u00e4r ni kommer hem, vem vet han kanske har fastnat p\u00e5 n\u00e5t.<\/p>\n

Vi skrattar alla gott \u00e5t tanken p\u00e5 en bj\u00f6rn som bombar v\u00e5ra bilder.<\/p>\n

\"\" \"\"<\/p>\n

Nu n\u00e4r vi kommit ner till en b\u00e4ckf\u00e5ra som fortfarande inneh\u00e5ller porlande vatten, \u00e4r det h\u00f6g tid f\u00f6r lunch. Trangia bjuder som s\u00e5 ofta f\u00f6rr p\u00e5 nudlar. Enkelt och gott. S\u00e5nna trivialiteter som att vi sprungit ifr\u00e5n b\u00e5de tallrikar och bestick hemma i Ume\u00e5, bryr vi oss inte om. Sm\u00f6r- och br\u00f6dfunktionalitet. Kroppen g\u00e5r ocks\u00e5 att \u00e4ta med.<\/p>\n

\"Vandring
\n\"\"\"Vandring \"Vandring<\/p>\n

Men klockan g\u00e5r. Vi har snart varit ute i 4 timmar, men g\u00e5tt l\u00e5ngt ifr\u00e5n halvv\u00e4gs. Vandringen ska enligt beskrivningen ta 6-8 timmar. Och vi har en tid att passa f\u00f6r 3-r\u00e4tters p\u00e5 v\u00e5rt hotell. B\u00e4st att pinna p\u00e5. Men landskapet \u00e4r s\u00e5 f\u00f6r\u00f6dande vackert. Att inte st\u00e4ndigt pausa f\u00f6r foto blir en om\u00f6jlighet. Jag hamnar p\u00e5 efterk\u00e4lken, d\u00e4r jag st\u00e4ndigt kr\u00e4lar i bl\u00e5b\u00e4rsriset f\u00f6r r\u00e4tta vinkeln.<\/p>\n

\"Vandring
Vandring i Sonfj\u00e4llets Nationalpark<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\"\" \"\"<\/p>\n

S\u00e5 b\u00f6rjar Christofer d\u00e4r framme veva med armarna frenetiskt. Jag smyger ikapp. Fast snabbt. Och d\u00e4r nere i s\u00e4nkan st\u00e5r ju en ren. En ren som filar sin stora krona av horn mot en tanig fj\u00e4llbj\u00f6rk. Fejar av huden och fram tr\u00e4der blodr\u00f6da horn. En scen som vi aldrig sett f\u00f6rut. Snart b\u00f6rjar brunsten. D\u00e5 det \u00e4r dags att strida om vajorna. S\u00e5 kommer tv\u00e5 renar till. Och bakom oss resten av hjorden. Varje kameraklick f\u00e5r dem att sp\u00e4nna musklerna och blicka \u00e5t v\u00e5rt h\u00e5ll. Vi blir kvar mitt i bland dem tills hela hjorden vandrar vidare.<\/p>\n

\"\" \"\" \"\" \"\"<\/p>\n

Nu \u00e4r vi \u00e4nnu mer sena f\u00f6rst\u00e5s. Men n\u00e5r s\u00e5 tj\u00e4rnen som \u00e4r vandringens halvlek avst\u00e5ndsm\u00e4ssigt. Och fr\u00e5n denna \u00e4r vandringen enkel och l\u00e4ttg\u00e5ngen. Plan mark eller ned\u00e5t. Vi plockar tid. Sista 3,5 kilometerna, efter avtagsv\u00e4gen mot Valmen g\u00e5r vi i fj\u00e4llbj\u00f6rkskogen. Och p\u00e5 sp\u00e4nger. F\u00f6rst nu kommer solen fram f\u00f6r dagen och vi f\u00e5r en kort gles regnskur mitt i solskenet.<\/p>\n

\"Vandring \"\"
\n\"\"<\/p>\n

Nere p\u00e5 f\u00e4boden har kossorna tagit \u00f6ver och strosar fritt i omr\u00e5det. Vankar f\u00f6re oss l\u00e4ngs leden sista biten. H\u00e4rjedalen. Landskapet d\u00e4r f\u00e4bod m\u00f6ter fj\u00e4ll och ett kl\u00f6vavtryck i leran p\u00e5 leden kan vara ren eller ko. Man kan aldrig s\u00e5 noga veta.<\/p>\n

\"\" \"\" \"\"<\/p>\n

Det blev en rej\u00e4l tur idag, 27.500 steg visar telefonen. Vi \u00e4r m\u00f6ra, men n\u00f6jda. Vi har f\u00e5tt lite av allt. Mordor, bl\u00e5b\u00e4r, fj\u00e4llhed, mjuka mular och r\u00f6da lysande horn. Och en vankande kossa p\u00e5 det. Jag vill genast g\u00e5 tillbaka och g\u00f6ra om alltihop.
\n– Den perfekta dagvandringen. Kan det vara s\u00e5 att vi hittat den?<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Fakta om dagens vandring<\/h2>\n

Vi v\u00e4ljer vandringen Sonfj\u00e4llet runt<\/strong>. Vandringen startar vid Nyvallens f\u00e4bod. Detta \u00e4r allts\u00e5 en rundvandring. Den variant som vi gick \u00e4r 12 km. Man kan ocks\u00e5 v\u00e4lja en 15 km l\u00e5ng, flackare str\u00e4ckning. Vi gick motsols och hade en v\u00e4ldigt brant stigning i b\u00f6rjan och sedan flack vandring utf\u00f6r resten av leden. G\u00e5r man \u00e5t motsatt h\u00e5ll f\u00e5r man f\u00f6rst\u00e5s det motsatta. Stigen \u00e4r v\u00e4l utm\u00e4rkt med orangea ledmarkeringar, men ingen skyltning finns i den brantare delen. D\u00e4r g\u00e4ller det att h\u00e5lla koll p\u00e5 kartan n\u00e4r leden delar p\u00e5 sig f\u00f6r att komma r\u00e4tt.<\/p>\n

P\u00e5 h\u00f6sten, n\u00e4r vi gick, fanns bara tillg\u00e5ng till rinnande vatten i \u00e5n Sodan. Tidigare p\u00e5 \u00e5ret kan man hitta vatten p\u00e5 fler st\u00e4llen.<\/p>\n

F\u00f6r oss i motsolsriktning, inklusive lunchrast, dimma och renar tog turen 7,5 timmar.<\/p>\n

\"Vandring
Vandring i Sonfj\u00e4llets Nationalpark<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Vi \u00e4r sjukt n\u00f6jda med dagen och v\u00e5r vandring i Sonfj\u00e4llets nationalpark.<\/p>\n

L\u00e4s mer:<\/strong> Flatruet – Sveriges h\u00f6gsta v\u00e4g 975 meter \u00f6ver havet<\/a><\/p>\n

Missa inga inl\u00e4gg. Gl\u00f6m inte att f\u00f6lja 4000mil p\u00e5 Facebook<\/a>\u00a0och\u00a0p\u00e5 Instagram<\/a>.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Vandring i Sonfj\u00e4llets Nationalpark Det blir n\u00e4sta overload i huvudet p\u00e5 oss n\u00e4r vi v\u00e4l best\u00e4mt oss att det \u00e4r till H\u00e4rjedalen vi ska \u00e5ka p\u00e5 den d\u00e4r l\u00e5nghelgen. F\u00f6r det finns ju s\u00e5 m\u00e5nga vandringsalternativ. Och s\u00e5 lite tid. Endast 2 vandringsdagar har vi. Vi vet att vi landar […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":38353,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8,2],"tags":[12678,11220,842,12682],"class_list":["post-38254","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-sverige","category-vandring","tag-harjedalen","tag-nationalparker","tag-norrland","tag-vandring-i-sverige"],"yoast_head":"\nVandring i Sonfj\u00e4llets Nationalpark - den perfekta dagsvandringen?<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Vandring i Sonfj\u00e4llets Nationalpark. Vi vandrar Sonfj\u00e4llet runt, f\u00f6rst i dimma, sen i sol. Vi har sv\u00e5rt att t\u00e4nka oss en b\u00e4ttre vandring.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/4000mil.se\/index.php\/vandring-i-sonfjallets-nationalpark\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"sv_SE\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Vandring i Sonfj\u00e4llets Nationalpark - den perfekta dagsvandringen?\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Vandring i Sonfj\u00e4llets Nationalpark. Vi vandrar Sonfj\u00e4llet runt, f\u00f6rst i dimma, sen i sol. 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