{"id":41810,"date":"2021-02-02T06:50:24","date_gmt":"2021-02-02T05:50:24","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/4000mil.se\/?p=41810"},"modified":"2021-03-06T14:38:45","modified_gmt":"2021-03-06T13:38:45","slug":"rostskydd-och-kaross-att-bygga-en-husbil-del-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/4000mil.se\/index.php\/rostskydd-och-kaross-att-bygga-en-husbil-del-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Rostskydd och kaross – Att bygga en husbil del 2"},"content":{"rendered":"

Det f\u00f6rsta man f\u00e5r b\u00f6rja med n\u00e4r man skaffat sin husbil to be<\/i>, det vill s\u00e4ga lastbil, \u00e4r ju inte att starta med de roliga grejerna. F\u00f6rst kommer n\u00e5gra veckor av tr\u00e5kjobb.<\/p>\n

N\u00e4r man k\u00f6per en begagnad lastbil (eller annat fordon f\u00f6r den delen) s\u00e5 kommer det att finnas rost. Klimatet, v\u00e4gsalt (you name it) kommer att s\u00e4tta sina sp\u00e5r och sakta men s\u00e4kert f\u00f6rs\u00f6ka bryta ner bilen. Just p\u00e5 v\u00e5r lastbil finns det rost p\u00e5 bagageluckorna bakom d\u00f6rrarna till hytten. Jag kommer h\u00e4r skriva och ber\u00e4tta om hur jag l\u00f6ste det.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Som ni ser, s\u00e5 finns det rost p\u00e5 nederkanten av bagaeluckorna in till f\u00f6rarhytten. Just nedanf\u00f6r finns en kant d\u00e4r det samlas sn\u00f6 och framf\u00f6r allt is p\u00e5 vintern. Problemet \u00e4r h\u00e4r, som p\u00e5 m\u00e5nga fordon att man f\u00f6rs\u00f6ker tvinga upp luckan trotts att isen \u00e4r i v\u00e4gen. Detta kommer att skada lacken och med tanke p\u00e5 det utsatta l\u00e4get kommer rosten som ett brev p\u00e5 posten.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Det \u00e4r en hel del rost p\u00e5 insidan. Rosten har f\u00e5tt h\u00e4rja ost\u00f6rt i m\u00e5nga \u00e5r. Man kan best\u00e4lla helt nya f\u00f6r c:a 3500 kronor\/st. Det kanske \u00e4r n\u00e4sta steg =)<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

S\u00e5 h\u00e4r ser det ut n\u00e4r luckan \u00e4r demonterad. Lite eller ingen rost under.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

P\u00e5 insidan av luckan sitter en textil som tas bort genom att lossa det tre plastskruvarna.<\/p>\n

Reng\u00f6ring<\/h2>\n

Innan arbete kan p\u00e5b\u00f6rjas reng\u00f6r jag noga. F\u00f6rst borstar jag av med en dammborste och sedan tv\u00e4ttar jag med m\u00e5lartv\u00e4tt.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Jag anv\u00e4nder en pensel f\u00f6r att vara s\u00e4ker p\u00e5 att jag kommer \u00e5t att tv\u00e4tta i alla skrymslen och h\u00f6rn.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Rostslipning<\/h2>\n

Det g\u00e4ller att f\u00e5 bort s\u00e5 mycket rost som m\u00f6jligt. Jag b\u00f6rjar med skrapa med en japanspackel innan jag g\u00e5r \u00f6ver p\u00e5 gruva slippapper P40. Har kan m\u00f6jlighet att anv\u00e4nda slipmaskin eller rondell \u00e4r det inte fel.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Utsida<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Insida<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
N\u00e4rstudie<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Rugga upp ytan<\/h2>\n

F\u00f6r att f\u00e5 bra vidh\u00e4ftning p\u00e5 kommande f\u00e4rglager s\u00e5 rekommenderar jag att man ruggar upp befintlig yta. Man kan anv\u00e4nda att slippapper P120 eller som i mitt fall en slipduk av typen Scotch Brite<\/a>. Va noga s\u00e5 att du inte missar att mattera ner n\u00e5gon yta.<\/p>\n

Reng\u00f6r ytan igen.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Rostomvandlare<\/h2>\n

Tanken med en rostomvandlare \u00e4r att den omvandlar befintlig rost (j\u00e4rnoxid) med hj\u00e4lp av n\u00e5gon slags syre typ. garvsyra till ett mer stabilt material. Detta \u00e4r ren kemi och allts\u00e5 inget hokus pokus. N\u00e4r rostomvandlaren kommer i kontakt med rost bildas en svart yta. Det rekommenderar att man h\u00e4ller upp det man ska ha i en separat burk. Jag ”h\u00e4llde” ocks\u00e5 in rostomvandlare i sj\u00e4lva luckan och l\u00e4t det rinna igenom utmed nederkanten. Rostomvandlare finns att best\u00e4lla h\u00e4r.<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Jag anv\u00e4nder Bioclean m\u00e5lartv\u00e4tt fr\u00e5n Caparol.<\/p>\n

Rostskydd<\/h2>\n

Rostomvandraren i sig ger ett bra rostskydd, men just n\u00e4r det g\u00e4ller rost s\u00e5 kan man aldrig vara s\u00e4ker. Jag sprayade p\u00e5 ett lager rostskyddsf\u00e4rg. Som ni ser s\u00e5 har jag dekalen ”300” kvar. Om man vill ta bort denna innan m\u00e5lning s\u00e5 g\u00e5r detta enkelt med en varmluftpistol. F\u00f6r mig spelar det ingen roll att detta blir \u00f6verm\u00e5lat.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Slutm\u00e5lning<\/h2>\n

Efter allt rostarbete \u00e4r det dags f\u00f6r slutm\u00e5lning. F\u00f6r mig \u00e4r inte slutfinishen s\u00e5 noga utan jag vill ha en riktigt slitt\u00e5lig f\u00e4rg. Egentligen skulle jag vilja m\u00e5la hela lastbilen med Raptor Bedliner men det blir i dyraste laget.<\/p>\n

Du m\u00e5ste fatta n\u00e5gra viktiga beslut innan du m\u00e5lar om din lastbil:<\/p>\n

F\u00e4rgs\u00e4ttning\/kul\u00f6r. Du m\u00e5ste helt enkelt best\u00e4mma dig f\u00f6r vilken kul\u00f6r du ska ha p\u00e5 ditt fordon. V\u00e4rt att veta \u00e4r att vissa gula pigment har d\u00e5lig t\u00e4ckf\u00f6rm\u00e5ga (vilket jag \u00e5terkommer till). Kul\u00f6rer anges i huvudsak i tv\u00e5 olika system. Det ena \u00e4r NCS vilket \u00e4r vanligt i m\u00e5leribranschen och den andra \u00e4r Ral som \u00e4r vanligare inom industrin. B\u00e5da g\u00e5r bra att omvandla till varandra. M\u00e5nga butiker har f\u00e4rgs\u00e4ttningsburkar att k\u00f6pa.<\/p>\n

Glans. Ju h\u00f6gre glans desto noggrannare underarbete m\u00e5ste du g\u00f6ra. H\u00f6g glans synar felaktigheter i underlaget b\u00e4ttre. L\u00e5g glans kan g\u00f6ra att tv\u00e4ttbarheten blir d\u00e5lig. Om du t\u00e4nker dig ett tak som inomhus som har glans 2-3 s\u00e5 \u00e4r det mycket sv\u00e5rare att torka rent \u00e4n en karm som har glans 40. Jag har glans 15 p\u00e5 f\u00e4rdigf\u00e4rgen.<\/p>\n

P\u00e5f\u00f6ringsmetod. Ska f\u00e4rgen rollas, penslas eller sprutas? Klarar man att spruta en 2-komponents poluyretan innan den h\u00e4rdar i f\u00e4rgsprutan o.s.v. Snyggast resultat f\u00e5r du om du sprutar.<\/p>\n

\u00c5tg\u00e5ng. Man brukar f\u00e5 l\u00e4mna tillbaka standardf\u00e4rger i o\u00f6ppnade burkar men har man brutit en specialf\u00e4rg s\u00e5 kan man inte r\u00e4kna med att l\u00e4mna tillbaka burken. R\u00e4kna med att en liter f\u00e4rg r\u00e4cker till 6 kvm. Man beh\u00f6ver m\u00e5la minst tv\u00e5 varv s\u00e5 i praktiken dubbel f\u00e4rg\u00e5tg\u00e5ng. Sk\u00e5pet p\u00e5 min lastbil har en omkrets p\u00e5 21 meter och \u00e4r 2,6 meter h\u00f6gt, allts\u00e5 \u00e4r v\u00e4ggytan c:a 55 kvm. 6kvm\/l ger (55\/6) 9 liter per varv. S\u00e5ledes beh\u00f6ver jag 18 liter till sk\u00e5pet.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Jag t\u00e4nkte att jag skulle m\u00e5la mina luckor i NCS S1080-Y70R men som ni ser s\u00e5 \u00e4r t\u00e4ckf\u00f6rm\u00e5gan p\u00e5 tok f\u00f6r d\u00e5lig. Man kan fortfarande sk\u00f6nja rostskyddsf\u00e4rgen efter 5!! strykningar. Jag gav upp, slipade ner och lade p\u00e5 ett lager grundf\u00e4rg.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Jag grundar \u00f6ver tidigare m\u00e5lad yta med Unigrund fr\u00e5n Caparol.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Nu v\u00e4ntar tv\u00e5 varv med NCS S5502-Y.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Nu har jag m\u00e5lat luckorna 3 varv.<\/p>\n

Nu \u00e5terst\u00e5r att l\u00e5ta f\u00e4rgen h\u00e4rda\/torka fullt ut. Sedan kommer jag att spruta in vax<\/a> i h\u00e5lrummet i luckan f\u00f6r att skydds mot framtida rostangrepp.<\/p>\n

Spackling. Jag spacklade inget f\u00f6r att jag, som jag tidigare sagt, inte har s\u00e5 h\u00f6ga krav p\u00e5 finish samt att det inte hade rostat igenom. Vissa h\u00e4vdar att all rost m\u00e5ste kapas bort och att ev. h\u00e5l m\u00e5ste svetsas igen. Andra h\u00e4vdar att det g\u00e5r bra att laga med glasfiber.<\/p>\n

Snabbschema:<\/p>\n

    \n
  1. Grovreng\u00f6r<\/li>\n
  2. Slipa bort befintlig rost<\/li>\n
  3. Rugga upp\/mattera \u00f6vrig yta<\/li>\n
  4. Reng\u00f6r noga hela ytan<\/li>\n
  5. Behandla rost med rostomvandlare x2<\/li>\n
  6. Behandla med rostskyddsf\u00e4rg<\/li>\n
  7. Grunda hela ytan om det beh\u00f6vs<\/li>\n
  8. F\u00e4rdigstryk x2<\/li>\n
  9. F\u00f6rebygg framtida rost (byt t\u00e4tningslister, vaxbehandla osv.)<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

    Missa inga steg i husbildbygget, gl\u00f6m inte att gilla 4000mil p\u00e5\u00a0Facebook<\/a> och 4000mil_bygger_en_husbil p\u00e5 Instagram<\/a>.<\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    Det f\u00f6rsta man f\u00e5r b\u00f6rja med n\u00e4r man skaffat sin husbil to be, det vill s\u00e4ga lastbil, \u00e4r ju inte att starta med de roliga grejerna. F\u00f6rst kommer n\u00e5gra veckor av tr\u00e5kjobb. N\u00e4r man k\u00f6per en begagnad lastbil (eller annat fordon f\u00f6r den delen) s\u00e5 kommer det att finnas rost. […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":41820,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[12689],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-41810","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-byggahusbil"],"yoast_head":"\nRostskydd och kaross - Att bygga en husbil del 2<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Det f\u00f6rsta man f\u00e5r b\u00f6rja med n\u00e4r man skaffat sin husbil to be, det vill s\u00e4ga lastbil, \u00e4r ju inte att starta med de roliga grejerna. 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