{"id":54899,"date":"2022-11-16T06:45:00","date_gmt":"2022-11-16T05:45:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/4000mil.se\/?p=54899"},"modified":"2022-11-23T16:11:47","modified_gmt":"2022-11-23T15:11:47","slug":"santa-maria-da-feira-en-bagare-ett-luciatag-och-sa-portugals-fodelse-pa-det","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/4000mil.se\/index.php\/santa-maria-da-feira-en-bagare-ett-luciatag-och-sa-portugals-fodelse-pa-det\/","title":{"rendered":"Santa Maria da Feira – en bagare, ett luciat\u00e5g och s\u00e5 Portugals f\u00f6delse p\u00e5 det"},"content":{"rendered":"

Det \u00e4r sista dagen p\u00e5 v\u00e5r resa i Portugal. Vi har vandrat \u00f6ver 516 Arouca Bridge<\/a> p\u00e5 f\u00f6rmiddagen och n\u00e4rmar oss nu kusten. I Santa Maria da Feira<\/em> finns ett pampigt medeltida slott.<\/p>\n

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P\u00e5 1100-talet utk\u00e4mpades ett slag som skulle bli startskottet f\u00f6r nationen Portugal, detta r\u00e4knas som den tidpunkt n\u00e4r landet Portugal f\u00f6ddes.<\/p>\n

Kung Alfons I, Portugals f\u00f6rsta kung, utgick h\u00e4rifr\u00e5n slottet under detta slag, d\u00e4r han faktiskt besegrade en konkurrerande arme ledd av hans egen mamma. Sl\u00e4ktk\u00e4rlek allts\u00e5. P\u00e5 den tiden.<\/p>\n

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S\u00e5 i Santa Maria da Feira s\u00e4ger man f\u00f6rst\u00e5s att Portugal vagga finns h\u00e4r, p\u00e5 slottet d\u00e4r vi nu st\u00e5r.<\/p>\n

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Slottet sj\u00e4lvt \u00e4r \u00e4n idag, 900 \u00e5r senare v\u00e4lbevarat. Och renoverat med varsam hand. Men t\u00f6mt p\u00e5 inneh\u00e5ll. Man f\u00e5r t\u00e4nka sig kanonerna p\u00e5 muren. Gobel\u00e4ngerna och de bastanta borden och b\u00e4nkarna i g\u00e4stabudssalen d\u00e4r stora fester h\u00f6lls. Narrarna och hovm\u00e4nnen som underh\u00f6ll och servade.<\/p>\n

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Bara ugnen finns kvar. Intakt och fungerande tronar bakugnen i det som en g\u00e5ng var slottets k\u00f6k. F\u00f6r h\u00e4r bakas ju den ber\u00f6mda Foga\u00e7an \u00e4n idag. Inte \u00e4nda sedan Alfons tid, men n\u00e4stan. F\u00f6r Santa Maria da Feira\u00b4s befolkning har ing\u00e5tt en pakt f\u00f6r eviga tider. Det var p\u00e5 1300-talet n\u00e4r digerd\u00f6den h\u00e4rjade som v\u00e4rst, som man lovade att f\u00f6r alltid baka sina Foga\u00e7an<\/em> <\/strong>i slottets ugn och genomf\u00f6ra h\u00f6gtiden Fogaceiras<\/em> <\/strong>den 20:e januari varje \u00e5r. Omsorgsfullt, likadant varje \u00e5r. F\u00f6r att undkomma pesten.<\/p>\n

En g\u00e5ng struntade man i det. Det blev ingen fest och ingen bakad kaka, och voala, pesten kom tillbaka. S\u00e4gs det. S\u00e5 \u00e4rligt talat, vem skulle v\u00e5ga chansa ytterligare en g\u00e5ng?<\/p>\n

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Vi vandrar vidare genom staden, ner fr\u00e5n medeltidsslottet och dess kullar. P\u00e5 huvudgatan ligger bagerierna t\u00e4tt. Alla bakar och s\u00e4ljer Foga\u00e7an. Men vi \u00e4r p\u00e5 v\u00e4g till le maestro<\/em>. Han som bakar den stora kakan till den \u00e5rliga riten. Uppe i sj\u00e4lvaste slottets ugn.<\/p>\n

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P\u00e5 Confeitaria Castelo<\/em> tar \u00e4garen sj\u00e4lv emot och visar. Foga\u00e7an \u00e4r en vetedeg som snurras. Som den klassisk svenska kanelbullen, ni vet. Fast ingen fyllning emellan liksom. Sedan snittas bullen med ett kryss h\u00f6gst upp och vips s\u00e5 har vi en kungakrona.<\/p>\n

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Under festen den 20:e januari t\u00e5gar stadens samtliga unga flickor genom staden. Alla i vita s\u00e4rkar och med varsin Foga\u00e7an p\u00e5 huvudet. Som ett gigantiskt lucia-t\u00e5g med bullkronor i st\u00e4llet f\u00f6r ljus!<\/p>\n

Vilken syn, vi hade g\u00e4rna varit h\u00e4r och upplevt detta!<\/p>\n

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S\u00e5 h\u00e4r ser det ut d\u00e5<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Men vi \u00e4r h\u00e4r nu. Och vi f\u00e5r smaka nybakt Foga\u00e7an, f\u00e4rsk lokal ost och portvin. Bryta br\u00f6det tillsammans med v\u00e5r nya v\u00e4n bagaren. Som ber\u00e4ttar hela historien om br\u00f6det f\u00f6r oss, sedan historien om n\u00e4r han son var utbytesstudent i Sverige och s\u00e5 historien om bageriet och om alla andra sorters kakor han bakar, varje kaka har f\u00f6rst\u00e5s sin ber\u00e4ttelse.<\/p>\n

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Tills vi skiljs \u00e5t i eftermiddagen. Vi ska hem\u00e5t till ett h\u00f6stligt Sverige. Han ska ladda upp inf\u00f6r \u00e5rets stora bak. H\u00e5lla den 700 \u00e5r l\u00e4nga traditionen vid liv. Ett \u00e5r till.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

M\u00e4nniskor, historier och platser. Den mosaik som resandet best\u00e5r av.<\/p>\n

Missa inga inl\u00e4gg. Gl\u00f6m inte att\u00a0f\u00f6lja 4000mil p\u00e5 Facebook<\/a>\u00a0och\u00a0p\u00e5 Instagram<\/a>.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Det \u00e4r sista dagen p\u00e5 v\u00e5r resa i Portugal. Vi har vandrat \u00f6ver 516 Arouca Bridge p\u00e5 f\u00f6rmiddagen och n\u00e4rmar oss nu kusten. I Santa Maria da Feira finns ett pampigt medeltida slott. P\u00e5 1100-talet utk\u00e4mpades ett slag som skulle bli startskottet f\u00f6r nationen Portugal, detta r\u00e4knas som den tidpunkt […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":55430,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1497],"tags":[12722,1226],"class_list":["post-54899","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-portugal","tag-norra-portugal","tag-slott"],"yoast_head":"\nSanta Maria da Feira - en bagare, ett luciat\u00e5g och s\u00e5 Portugals f\u00f6delse p\u00e5 det<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Det \u00e4r sista dagen p\u00e5 v\u00e5r resa i Portugal. Vi har vandrat \u00f6ver 516 Arouca Bridge p\u00e5 f\u00f6rmiddagen och n\u00e4rmar oss nu kusten. 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