{"id":62189,"date":"2023-10-18T06:46:00","date_gmt":"2023-10-18T04:46:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/4000mil.se\/?p=62189"},"modified":"2023-10-16T08:59:52","modified_gmt":"2023-10-16T06:59:52","slug":"karlsruhe","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/4000mil.se\/index.php\/karlsruhe\/","title":{"rendered":"Karlsruhe – 30 \u00e5r senare \u00e5terv\u00e4nder utbytesstudenten"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Karslruhe \u00e4r en liten j\u00e4rnv\u00e4gsknut i sydv\u00e4stra Tyskland. Ingen gigant som Hamburg eller M\u00fcnchen, men p\u00e5 en t\u00e5gluff kan det \u00e4nd\u00e5 slumpa sig s\u00e5 att man beh\u00f6ver kliva av och byta t\u00e5g just h\u00e4r.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Karlsruhe \u00e4r ocks\u00e5 just den studentstad d\u00e4r jag tillbringade ett \u00e5r som utbytesstudent i b\u00f6rjan av 1990-talet. Hemma i Sverige l\u00e4ste jag civilingenj\u00f6rsutbildningen Industriell ekonomi. Fritt \u00f6versatt \u00e4r det den civilingenj\u00f6rsutbildning som v\u00e4nder sig till alla som garanterat aldrig vill jobba som ingenj\u00f6rer, men g\u00e4rna vill ha titeln. S\u00e5 att s\u00e4ga. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Tysklands motsvarighet heter Wirtschaftsingenieur. Via n\u00e4tverket Erasmus kunde man p\u00e5 den h\u00e4r tiden ans\u00f6ka om ett utbytes\u00e5r ute i Europa. Byta ett \u00e5r av sin svenska utbildning till ett \u00e5r i n\u00e5got annat land i st\u00e4llet. Jag s\u00f6kte och blev antagen i just Karlsruhe i Tyskland allts\u00e5. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ett \u00e5r, 1993-94, pluggade jag h\u00e4r, sluttentor i juli 1994, den legendariskt varma sommaren, ni vet. Med fotbolls-VM och allt. Och sedan har jag aldrig \u00e5terv\u00e4nt.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

S\u00e5 ni f\u00f6rst\u00e5r ju sj\u00e4lva att ett stopp i Karlsruhe st\u00e5r h\u00f6gt upp p\u00e5 lista f\u00f6r mig p\u00e5 en t\u00e5gluff? I \u00e5r \u00e4r det dessutom exakt 30 \u00e5r sedan jag f\u00f6r f\u00f6rsta g\u00e5ngen anl\u00e4nde till stan.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ankomsten<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Karlsruhe blir ett av v\u00e5ra allra sista stopp p\u00e5 t\u00e5gluffen, p\u00e5 v\u00e5r v\u00e4g tillbaka upp genom Tyskland.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Kliver av p\u00e5 j\u00e4rnv\u00e4gsstationen, g\u00e5r and\u00e4ktigt vidare in i stationsbyggnaden. Och den d\u00e4r k\u00e4nslan intr\u00e4der. N\u00e4r ryggraden liksom k\u00e4nner igen en plats snarare \u00e4n \u00f6gonen och hj\u00e4rnan. Ni vet, man kan inte s\u00e4ga, ja, den h\u00e4r byggnaden k\u00e4nner jag ingen, jag minns f\u00e4rgen p\u00e5 taket och de blyinfattade f\u00f6nstren. Utan man k\u00e4nner mer, via en inre kroppslig reaktion att det \u00e4r bekant, platsen landar n\u00e5gonstans inom en och river upp en k\u00e4nsla?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Sedan g\u00e5r vi mot hotellet, som ligger lite f\u00f6r l\u00e5ngt bort f\u00f6r att det ska k\u00e4nnas bekv\u00e4mt i den 30-gradiga v\u00e4rmen. Men jag har bokat med pl\u00e5nboken f\u00f6rst\u00e5s. Som man m\u00e5ste g\u00f6ra n\u00e4r man \u00e4r ute i \u00f6ver 3 veckor. Kastar in v\u00e4skorna och ruttar v\u00e4gen in mot stan.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

– Helt sjukt, s\u00e4ger jag. Men det h\u00e4r skulle kunna vara vilken j\u00e4kla stad som helst i v\u00e4rlden. Jag k\u00e4nner inte igen ett skit. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Till mitt f\u00f6rsvar \u00e4r vi ju inte i mina hoods heller. Inte n\u00e4ra universitetet eller min bostad. Fast, s\u00e4ger jag till Christofer, h\u00e4r n\u00e5gonstans fanns det p\u00e5 min tid ett gath\u00f6rn. D\u00e4r man kunde gena i h\u00f6rnet med cykeln \u00f6ver en gr\u00e4spl\u00e4tt. Det gjorde vi ocks\u00e5 f\u00f6rst\u00e5s, varje g\u00e5ng vi cyklade h\u00e4r. Och varje dag, alla tider p\u00e5 dygnet, stod det en man d\u00e4r i h\u00f6rnet och skrek \u00e5t oss, \u00e5t alla som konstant genade i kurvan.
– Man f\u00e5r inte cykla p\u00e5 gr\u00e4set! Skrek mannen dag efter dag till alla som passerade.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

– Och det personifierade s\u00e5 l\u00e4nge tysken f\u00f6r mig, s\u00e4ger jag. F\u00f6r s\u00e5na var de. Ordnung mu\u00df sein, liksom. Men nu k\u00e4nns ju tyskarna mer avslappnade. Lugna och fina.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Stan och slottet<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Men pl\u00f6tsligt br\u00e4nner det till. Vi kommer in till centrum och Karlsplatz. Med sin pyramid och sitt varuhus Karstadt. Det minns man ju. Studiemedlet fr\u00e5n CSN fick man ta ut i kontanter p\u00e5 en bank i ena \u00e4nden av torget, hela terminsbeloppet p\u00e5 en g\u00e5ng, och sedan promenera med alla pengarna i kontanter i fickan rakt \u00f6ver torget till n\u00e4sta bank, Sparkasse d\u00e4r man fick ett studentkonto gratis utan avgifter. D\u00e4r satte man sedan in pengarna igen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

P\u00e5 andra sidan torget ligger slottet. Karlsruhe slott j\u00e4mnades, precis som precis hela resten av Karlsruhe, med marken under andra v\u00e4rldskriget. Slottet byggdes dock upp igen i ursprungligt skick och slottsparken \u00e4r stadens lunga och rekreationsomr\u00e5de. Detta \u00e4r f\u00f6rst\u00e5s ett omr\u00e5de jag fortfarande k\u00e4nner igen. H\u00e4r var man ofta n\u00e4r det var bra v\u00e4der.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Universitetet<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Sedan, via en av grindarna i slottsparkens \u00f6stra kant, g\u00e5r vi in p\u00e5 universitetsomr\u00e5det.
Allt \u00e4r sig likt, jag k\u00e4nner igen arkitekturen, typen av hus. Men inget specifikt hus, vi hade nog f\u00f6rel\u00e4sningarna v\u00e4ldigt utspridda? St\u00e4ndigt nya byggnader och salar. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Christofer f\u00f6rs\u00f6ker l\u00e4sa p\u00e5 skyltar och leda mig r\u00e4tt, men jag g\u00e5r som i trans. F\u00f6tterna vet vart de ska. Mycket riktigt, pl\u00f6tsligt st\u00e5r vi framf\u00f6r Mensan. Skolmatsalen allts\u00e5. H\u00e4r \u00e5t man lunch f\u00f6r 15 kr ungef\u00e4r. L\u00f6pande band och barska mattanter som slevade upp mat direkt p\u00e5 st\u00e5lbrickor med utgr\u00f6pningar f\u00f6r maten. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Sedan \u00e5t man i en gigantisk sal.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Inredningen \u00e4r identisk. Varf\u00f6r \u00e4ndra ett vinnande koncept liksom? Ingen str\u00e4ng mattant d\u00e4remot, hittar jag, utan en pytteliten kvinna, med ursprung fr\u00e5n n\u00e5got annat land.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

– F\u00e5r jag se mig omkring? Fr\u00e5gar jag. Jag pluggade h\u00e4r f\u00f6r 30 \u00e5r sedan.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jod\u00e5 det ska g\u00e5 bra, s\u00e4ger kvinnan. Hejdar mig sedan och fr\u00e5gar:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

– 30 \u00e5r? Sa du 30 \u00e5r? Det \u00e4r tydligt att hon vill ber\u00e4tta om detta f\u00f6r kollegorna sedan.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Bostaden<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Nu r\u00f6r vi oss mot min bostad p\u00e5 Gerwigstra\u00dfe 4. Allt \u00e4r sig likt, fast kvarteret k\u00e4nns trevligare. Mer folk i r\u00f6relse, fler butiker och till och med restauranger.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

H\u00e4r bodde jag i ett rum i en delad l\u00e4genhet p\u00e5 fj\u00e4rde v\u00e5ningen utan hiss. Rummet v\u00e4rmdes upp med en oljepanna. Oljan h\u00e4mtade man med en kanna fr\u00e5n k\u00e4llaren. Varje morgon n\u00e4r man vaknade hade oljan brunnit ut och rummet var iskallt.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Vogelbr\u00e4u<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Nu n\u00e4r vi kollat in all nostalgi vill vi ju \u00e4ta. Googlar st\u00e4llen med uteservering i det fina v\u00e4dret och allt. Och d\u00e5 visar det sig ju att det lokala mikrobryggeriet Vogelbr\u00e4u finns kvar. Dit vi ibland gick \u00e4ven p\u00e5 min tid. Samma st\u00e4lle, samma \u00f6l. Och en Biergarten p\u00e5 innerg\u00e5rden. Billigt \u00e4r det att \u00e4ta ocks\u00e5, i en stad som inte \u00e4r ett turistm\u00e5l alls.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Den Karlsruhiska folksj\u00e4len \u00e4r sig lik<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

N\u00f6jda med eftermiddagen promenerar vi tillbaka mot hotellet. P\u00e5 en bred g\u00e5ngbana vid sidan av en st\u00f6rre v\u00e4g. Systemkameror p\u00e5 magen och Google Maps i h\u00e4nderna. Uppenbara turister. D\u00e5 susar ett par i v\u00e5r \u00e5lder f\u00f6rbi p\u00e5 cykel. Obehagligt n\u00e4ra, s\u00e5 d\u00e4r s\u00e5 att man hoppar till och blir lite r\u00e4dd. Samtidigt skriker mannen ilsket till oss.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

– Es ist ein Radweg! Det \u00e4r en cykelv\u00e4g!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Och d\u00e4r och d\u00e5 sluter sig cirkeln. 30 \u00e5r senare och Karlsruhe-borna har ju inte anv\u00e4nt tiden till chilla och lugna ner sig. Alls. De verkar ha laddat i 30 \u00e5r f\u00f6r min \u00e5terkomst. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

D\u00e4r och d\u00e5 mumlar jag till Christofer det jag velat s\u00e4ga i 30 \u00e5r nu:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

– F\u00f6rbannade tyska idioter!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Karslruhe \u00e4r en liten j\u00e4rnv\u00e4gsknut i sydv\u00e4stra Tyskland. Ingen gigant som Hamburg eller M\u00fcnchen, men p\u00e5 en t\u00e5gluff kan det \u00e4nd\u00e5 slumpa sig s\u00e5 att man beh\u00f6ver kliva av och byta t\u00e5g just h\u00e4r. Karlsruhe \u00e4r ocks\u00e5 just den studentstad d\u00e4r jag tillbringade ett \u00e5r som utbytesstudent i b\u00f6rjan av […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":60919,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1592],"tags":[12739],"class_list":["post-62189","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-tyskland","tag-tagluff-2023"],"yoast_head":"\nKarlsruhe - 30 \u00e5r senare \u00e5terv\u00e4nder utbytesstudenten<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Karslruhe \u00e4r en liten j\u00e4rnv\u00e4gsknut i sydv\u00e4stra Tyskland. 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