{"id":66005,"date":"2024-02-04T08:00:00","date_gmt":"2024-02-04T07:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/4000mil.se\/?p=66005"},"modified":"2025-09-04T21:13:35","modified_gmt":"2025-09-04T19:13:35","slug":"la-leona-lodge","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/4000mil.se\/index.php\/la-leona-lodge\/","title":{"rendered":"La Leona Lodge – h\u00e4r hade vi g\u00e4rna stannat f\u00f6r evigt!"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Det kan n\u00e4stan k\u00e4nnas kvalfyllt ibland att skriva om de d\u00e4r platserna som man \u00e4lskar allra mest. F\u00f6r hur ska man kunna g\u00f6ra r\u00e4ttvisa? N\u00e5v\u00e4l, nu \u00e4r det dags, den stora dagen har kommit. Det har blivit dags f\u00f6r oss att ber\u00e4tta om La Leona Lodge i Costa Rica.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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P\u00e5 s\u00e4tt och vis kan man s\u00e4ga att La Leona \u00e4r anledningen till att vi alls reser till Costa Rica. Inte bara f\u00f6rst\u00e5s, fast \u00e4nd\u00e5. Jag har hittat hit p\u00e5 internet f\u00f6r m\u00e5nga \u00e5r sedan. Minns inte nu riktigt hur eller n\u00e4r. Bara att platsen sparats och sedan dess pockat p\u00e5 uppm\u00e4rksamhet. En plats som m\u00e5ste bes\u00f6kas.
Utan La Leona inget Costa Rica. S\u00e5 enkelt \u00e4r det.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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F\u00f6ljaktligen b\u00f6rjar vi h\u00e4r. Innan ens flyget \u00e4r bokat. 9 m\u00e5nader innan. L\u00e5ng korrespondens med lodgen f\u00f6ljer. F\u00f6r jag vill att allt ska vara perfekt. Vi best\u00e4mmer oss f\u00f6r 4 n\u00e4tter. Det \u00e4r inte ofta vi ger en plats s\u00e5 l\u00e5ng tid. Men nu \u00e4r det dags. Och jag kan v\u00e4l redan nu avsl\u00f6ja att v\u00e4l p\u00e5 plats n\u00e4stan svartnar det f\u00f6r \u00f6gonen p\u00e5 mig varje g\u00e5ng jag t\u00e4nker p\u00e5 att jag ens \u00f6verv\u00e4gde 3 n\u00e4tter. Vilket fruktansv\u00e4rt misstag det hade varit! Kanske hellre d\u00e5 5 n\u00e4tter. Eller 6 eller 7.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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4 n\u00e4tter bokas allts\u00e5. I en strandhydda f\u00f6rst\u00e5s. Vi f\u00e5r styra om hela v\u00e5r itinerary<\/em> f\u00f6r att f\u00e5 till det med transporten hit. M\u00e5ndag, onsdag och fredag g\u00e5r en collectivo som kostar 14 dollar per person. Annars f\u00e5r man boka en privat taxi f\u00f6r 120 dollar. Vi styr om s\u00e5 att vi kommer en m\u00e5ndag och \u00e5ker en fredag.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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V\u00e4gen till La Leona<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Att ta sig till La Leona tar en dag. Hursomhaver t\u00e4nkte vi s\u00e4ga. Vi plockas upp redan 7 p\u00e5 morgonen p\u00e5 v\u00e5rt hotell i Manuel Antonio. Anl\u00e4nder 11 till Puerto Jimenez. En s\u00f6mnig lite stad l\u00e4ngst ner i s\u00f6draste delen av Costa Rica, p\u00e5 Osa-halv\u00f6n. Vi har via bokningen \u00f6ver Internet best\u00e4llt avsl\u00e4pp vid bussh\u00e5llplatsen till Carate<\/em>, n\u00e4rmaste by till La Leona. V\u00e4l p\u00e5 plats i den bokade bilen \u00e4r v\u00e5r spanska och chauff\u00f6rens engelska f\u00f6r d\u00e5lig f\u00f6r att vi ska kunna kommunicera vidare om saken. Vi blir helt enkelt avsl\u00e4ppta p\u00e5 den dammiga huvudgatan. Luften dallrar av hettan. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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– Jaha, vart tar vi v\u00e4gen nu? Hoppar in p\u00e5 ett h\u00e5l i v\u00e4ggen med skylten ”Turistinformation” och fr\u00e5gar efter bussen till Carate. Och f\u00e5r uppleva v\u00e5rt f\u00f6rsta och enda scam i Costa Rica. F\u00f6r killen i det som mest troligt inte \u00e4r n\u00e5gon officiell turistinformation s\u00e4ger sig visserligen kunna visa oss varifr\u00e5n sagda buss g\u00e5r, men vill f\u00f6rst upplysningsvis tips oss om att tidvattnet \u00e4r p\u00e5 v\u00e4g in och om vi v\u00e4ntar 2 timmar p\u00e5 collectivon kommer vi v\u00e4l p\u00e5 plats i Carate inte att kunna korsa den f\u00f6rsta floden och ta oss \u00f6ver. Vi kommer att bli fast m\u00e5nga timmar. Om vi inte \u00e5ker nu direkt!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Det \u00e4r r\u00e4tt tydligt att han f\u00f6rs\u00f6ker s\u00e4lja p\u00e5 oss en privat taxiresa. Vi g\u00e5r vidare. P\u00e5 n\u00e4sta st\u00e4lle f\u00e5r vi napp. Killen d\u00e4r visar g\u00e4rna var h\u00e5llplatsen f\u00f6r v\u00e5r collectivo \u00e4r bel\u00e4gen. Men ser lite medlidsamt p\u00e5 oss n\u00e4r vi kallar den buss.
– Allts\u00e5, det \u00e4r ju inte direkt en buss…<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bredvid den obefintliga h\u00e5llplatsen, som, som mest kan g\u00f6ra anspr\u00e5k p\u00e5 att vara en dammig mj\u00f6lkpall, ligger en lika dammig restaurang. Skuggan d\u00e4r inne ser inbjudande ut, s\u00e5 vi sl\u00e5r oss ner och best\u00e4ller fruktjuice och burritos. H\u00e4r \u00e4r maten bet\u00e4nkligt billigare \u00e4n uppe i de mer turistt\u00e4ta omr\u00e5dena i norr.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Vi bevakar nerv\u00f6st v\u00e5r mj\u00f6lkpall. F\u00f6r vi har l\u00e4st i Lonely Planet att man m\u00e5ste vara p\u00e5 plats minst en halvtimme innan f\u00f6r att vara s\u00e4ker p\u00e5 att f\u00e5 plats. En tjej och en man kommer och s\u00e4tter sig p\u00e5 pallen \u00f6ver en timme innan. Hm. Om det inte \u00e4r en buss, vad \u00e4r det d\u00e5? Och hur m\u00e5nga f\u00e5r egentligen plats? 50 minuter innan ser vi oss tvungna att \u00f6verge v\u00e5r skuggiga position p\u00e5 restaurangen och bege oss upp och k\u00f6a. Man vet ju aldrig. Kvart i kommer bilen. En pickup med tak. Tv\u00e5 l\u00e4ngsg\u00e5ende britsar. Nu \u00e4r vi 8 turister p\u00e5 plats. Jod\u00e5 alla f\u00e5r plats d\u00e4r bak. Chauff\u00f6ren har med sig en lokal kille som f\u00e5r den \u00e4ran att sitta i fram. Lyxplatsen. Just n\u00e4r vi ska \u00e5ka kommer en ensam kille. Pl\u00f6tsligt f\u00e5r \u00e4ven han plats d\u00e4r bak. I utkanten av byn trycker vi in en lokal kvinna ocks\u00e5. Som tredje person i fram. Det g\u00e5r ju ocks\u00e5 bra. Hon har ju bara 3 matkassar med sig. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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2 timmars f\u00e4rd l\u00e4ngs skumpiga, usla v\u00e4gar. Att byta position kan man gl\u00f6mma. Rumpan domnar bort. Men vad g\u00f6r v\u00e4l det. Jag ser havet hela v\u00e4gen! <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vi g\u00e5r av sist. L\u00e4mnar v\u00e4skorna till en kille med h\u00e4st och vagn. De ska f\u00e5 skjuts och vi ska f\u00e5 g\u00e5. Och nu visar det sig att tidvattnet \u00e4r p\u00e5 v\u00e4g bort och inte in. Och den d\u00e4r f\u00f6rsta floden n\u00e5r oss bara till vaden och p\u00e5verkas inte ens av tidvattnet, f\u00e5r vi veta n\u00e4r vi fr\u00e5gar. S\u00e5 visst var det ett f\u00f6rs\u00f6k till en scam d\u00e4r uppe p\u00e5 ”turistkontoret”.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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H\u00e4sten s\u00e4tter av i trav ihop med v\u00e5ra v\u00e4skor. Vi vandrar barfota l\u00e4ngs en o\u00e4ndlig \u00f6de sandstrand. Stilla havets v\u00e5gor sl\u00e5r in. R\u00f6da aror flyger tv\u00e5 och tv\u00e5 \u00f6ver v\u00e5ra huvuden. Vi k\u00e4nner redan nu att det \u00e4r paradiset vi kommit till och inget annat. Efter en knapp timme \u00e4r vi framme vid v\u00e5r lodge. Det enda tecknet p\u00e5 civilisation l\u00e4ngs denna i \u00f6vrigt \u00f6de kuststr\u00e4cka. En nyfiken n\u00e4sbj\u00f6rn m\u00f6ter oss i sl\u00e4nten upp.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Perfekta dagar<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Vi bor i t\u00e4lt-hyddor. Glamping med privat badrum med utomhus-toalett och dusch bakom. En h\u00e4rlig uteplats p\u00e5 framsidan med utsikt \u00f6ver havet och solnedg\u00e5ngen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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T\u00e4lten har ingen el. N\u00e4r skymningen faller finns stearinljus att t\u00e4nda. I huvudbyggnaden finns el fr\u00e5n solceller. H\u00e4r kan man ladda sina devices och internet finns tillg\u00e4ngligt.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Mat serveras tre g\u00e5nger om dagen. Best\u00e4mda tider och samma mat till alla (plus specialkost f\u00f6rst\u00e5s). S\u00e5 som brukas p\u00e5 lodger l\u00e5ngt borta fr\u00e5n civilisationen.
Samma procedur varje kv\u00e4ll. Vi b\u00e4nkar oss f\u00f6r solnedg\u00e5ng. Ska man v\u00e4lja stranden, h\u00e4ngmattorna eller den egna uteplatsen? Oh, du kvalfyllda v\u00e4rld!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Sedan dags att t\u00e4nda ljusen. Vi t\u00e4nder v\u00e5ra, i t\u00e4lt, i badrum och p\u00e5 uteplatsen. Personalen t\u00e4nder en ljusstig som visar v\u00e4gen till restaurangen. Sedan samlas alla boende i baren, best\u00e4ller in n\u00e5got kallt i v\u00e4ntan p\u00e5 maten, som alltid \u00e4r en halvtimme sen.
– Ma\u00f1ana!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Efter middagen, alltid tv\u00e5 r\u00e4tter, drar man sig tillbaka (om man inte har en bokad nattvandring f\u00f6rst\u00e5s). Det finns inte s\u00e5 mycket att g\u00f6ra i en v\u00e4rld utan el. Den blir tidig s\u00e4ngg\u00e5ng med m\u00e5nljuset som lyser in genom t\u00e4ltets stora n\u00e4tf\u00f6nster. V\u00e5gornas brus som blir till ett \u00f6ronbed\u00f6vande d\u00e5n, n\u00e4r allt annat tystnat. En natt, den sista, v\u00e4cks vi av att ett tropiskt h\u00e4llregn piskar mot t\u00e4ltets tak med v\u00e5ldsam kraft.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Dagarna kan man fylla med utflykter i den angr\u00e4nsande Corcovado nationalpark. En superb plats f\u00f6r wildlife-spotting. Eller bara med att ta det lugnt. Havet finns d\u00e4r, vi f\u00f6ljer tidvattnets dygnsrytm, vid h\u00f6gvatten \u00e4r det farligt att bada. \u00d6vriga tider \u00e4r v\u00e5gorna \u00f6verv\u00e4ldigande, men hanterbara. H\u00e4ngmattorna i skuggan blir snart favoriter. Kl\u00e4der k\u00e4nns \u00f6verfl\u00f6diga i hettan och luftfuktigheten. Man har p\u00e5 sig s\u00e5 lite som m\u00f6jligt och underkl\u00e4der \u00e4r ju bara i v\u00e4gen. H\u00e5ret f\u00e5r se ut som det vill, man ser ju \u00e4nd\u00e5 inte s\u00e5 tydligt i de lilla spegeln utan belysning. Man flyter snabbt in i en absolut avslappning utan krav och med de vilda djuren som n\u00e4rmaste grannar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Finbes\u00f6k<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Vi k\u00e4nner oss s\u00e5 tacksamma. Att vi f\u00e5r uppleva det h\u00e4r.
– Alla m\u00e4nniskor borde f\u00e5 komma hit minst en g\u00e5ng! T\u00e4nker jag entusiastiskt.
Men ett brittiskt par som vi tr\u00e4ffar s\u00e4ger:
– Ingen vi k\u00e4nner vill \u00e5ka hit. De tycker att det l\u00e5ter hemskt primitivt.
Ja det \u00e4r klart. Smaken \u00e4r som baken. Det brittiska paret som \u00e4r \u00e4ldre, vi v\u00e5gar inte fr\u00e5ga hur gamla, s\u00e4ger sig ha slutat resa runt i v\u00e4rlden och uppt\u00e4cka nytt.
– Numera \u00e5terv\u00e4nder vi bara hit. F\u00f6r n\u00e5gon annan plats h\u00e4r p\u00e5 jorden, som denna, det har vi inte hittat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Boka La Leona lodge h\u00e4r.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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L\u00e4s ocks\u00e5:<\/strong> Manuel Antonio National Park \u2013 djur och str\u00e4nder i Costa Rica<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Missa inga inl\u00e4gg. Gl\u00f6m inte att f\u00f6lja 4000mil p\u00e5 Facebook<\/a> och p\u00e5 Instagram<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Det kan n\u00e4stan k\u00e4nnas kvalfyllt ibland att skriva om de d\u00e4r platserna som man \u00e4lskar allra mest. F\u00f6r hur ska man kunna g\u00f6ra r\u00e4ttvisa? N\u00e5v\u00e4l, nu \u00e4r det dags, den stora dagen har kommit. Det har blivit dags f\u00f6r oss att ber\u00e4tta om La Leona Lodge i Costa Rica. P\u00e5 […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":66540,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[12746,219],"tags":[364],"class_list":["post-66005","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-costarica","category-hotel-varda-en-omvag","tag-hotell"],"yoast_head":"\nLa Leona Lodge - h\u00e4r hade vi g\u00e4rna stannat f\u00f6r evigt!<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Det kan n\u00e4stan k\u00e4nnas kvalfyllt ibland att skriva om de d\u00e4r platserna som man \u00e4lskar allra mest. F\u00f6r hur ska man kunna g\u00f6ra r\u00e4ttvisa? 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