{"id":71134,"date":"2024-08-03T07:00:00","date_gmt":"2024-08-03T05:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/4000mil.se\/?p=71134"},"modified":"2025-09-04T21:12:52","modified_gmt":"2025-09-04T19:12:52","slug":"maloren","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/4000mil.se\/index.php\/maloren\/","title":{"rendered":"Vi bes\u00f6ker Mal\u00f6ren och utbrister: ”Vad ska man med Medelhavet till?”"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Mal\u00f6ren ska tydligen betyda ”rund sten”<\/em>. Ett passande namn p\u00e5 en \u00f6 som best\u00e5r av just detta. Ett enda stort klapperstensf\u00e4lt av runda stenar \u00e4r ju hela \u00f6n. En atollformad \u00f6 som reste sig ur havet med hj\u00e4lp av landh\u00f6jningen f\u00f6r bara 1500 \u00e5r sedan. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Karg, k\u00e4rv, l\u00e4ngst ut i havsbandet. Den sista \u00f6n i Kalix sk\u00e4rg\u00e5rd innan \u00f6ppna havet och s\u00e5 sm\u00e5ningom Finland tar vid.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Vi \u00e5ker ut sista helgen i juli. Den f\u00f6r Norrbottenskusten s\u00e5 karakt\u00e4ristiska ryssv\u00e4rmen <\/em>har oss i sitt grepp. Ljumma vindar l\u00e5ngt in p\u00e5 natten. Sol och ett varmt, badv\u00e4nligt hav.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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B\u00e5tresan ut sker med en gammal avdankad milit\u00e4rb\u00e5t. En robust rackare som klarar det mesta i sj\u00f6v\u00e4g. Men idag samarbetar havet. \u00c4r sitt b\u00e4sta silverbl\u00e4nkande.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Mal\u00f6ren Lodge<\/em> heter platsen som g\u00f6r det m\u00f6jligt f\u00f6r fr\u00e4mlingar att \u00f6vernatta h\u00e4r. 8 rum med sj\u00e4lvhush\u00e5ll och utedass. Det enkla livet. Vi har slagit p\u00e5 stort och hyrt sviten. Ett st\u00f6rre rum en trappa upp med f\u00f6nster i 3 v\u00e4derstreck. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Mitt p\u00e5 \u00f6n st\u00e5r kapellet och fyren med sina karakt\u00e4ristiska siluetter. Fyren konstruerad av sj\u00e4lvaste Gustav von Heidenstam och den \u00e5ttkantiga kyrkan i tr\u00e4 fr\u00e5n 1768.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Lugnet i denna avl\u00e4gsna del av v\u00e4rlden, sista utposten p\u00e5 jordskorpans yttersta kant, infinner sig direkt. Vi badar i den misslyckade, raserade norra hamnen som Sj\u00f6fartsverket \u00e4nd\u00e5 byggde, trots \u00f6bornas varningar. D\u00e4r isens krafter brutit is\u00e4r betongblocken. Simmar l\u00e4nge, l\u00e4nge i den ljumma, br\u00e4ckta vattnet. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\u00c4ter oss n\u00e4sta m\u00e4tta p\u00e5 smultronen som v\u00e4xer \u00f6verallt och i massor. M\u00f6ter en hare och spanar p\u00e5 en havs\u00f6rn p\u00e5 den v\u00e4stra flanken p\u00e5 \u00f6n. L\u00e4ser sommarens bok, mastodont-tegelstenen Vikarien <\/em>av David Norlin. Den som f\u00e5tt kritik f\u00f6r att inget liksom h\u00e4nder i hela boken. En perfekt inramning till den lugna Mal\u00f6ren, d\u00e4r inget heller h\u00e4nder. Ens ska h\u00e4nda.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Maten som vi haft med oss och lagar sj\u00e4lva i det gemensamma k\u00f6ket, \u00e4ts f\u00f6rst\u00e5s med havsutsikt. Hur undkommer man ens havsutsikten p\u00e5 en \u00f6 som denna? Om man nu skulle vilja?
P\u00e5 kv\u00e4llarna t\u00e4nder vi den vedeldade bastun intill havet och badar l\u00e4nge medan solen s\u00e4nker sig utanf\u00f6r bastuf\u00f6nstret.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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– Vad ska man med Medelhavet till? Fr\u00e5gar vi varandra. N\u00e4r detta finns? Helt ok\u00e4nt, obes\u00f6kt och exklusivt i en tid av \u00f6verturism, tr\u00e4ngsel, och rekordhetta i \u00f6vriga Europa?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Fakta om Mal\u00f6ren<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Mal\u00f6ren \u00e4r en h\u00e4stskoformad liten \u00f6, endast 3 kilometer l\u00e5ng. \u00d6n \u00e4ndrar st\u00e4ndigt form, dels p\u00e5 grund av landh\u00f6jningen, dels p\u00e5 grund av sand som kommer in med vattnet och str\u00f6mmarna.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00d6n var finsk fram till 1809. N\u00e4r Sverige avtr\u00e4dde resten av Finland och \u00c5land till Ryssland fick vi beh\u00e5lla Mal\u00f6ren. Som en liten fringis?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Trots sin litenhet finns h\u00e4r flera sev\u00e4rdheter. Fyren och kyrkan som tidigare n\u00e4mnts, men ocks\u00e5 ett vrak fr\u00e5n 1935 och en sj\u00f6mansgrav fr\u00e5n 1835. Dessutom d\u00e5 en havererad hamn, som en p\u00e5minnelse till m\u00e4nniskan om hennes egen litenhet mot havet och naturkrafterna. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

B\u00e5t till Mal\u00f6ren avg\u00e5r fr\u00e5n Norrkust Marina<\/em>, \u00f6ster om Kalix, och tar 45 minuter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Vraket<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Missa inga inl\u00e4gg. Gl\u00f6m inte att f\u00f6lja 4000mil p\u00e5 Facebook<\/a> och p\u00e5 Instagram<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Mal\u00f6ren ska tydligen betyda ”rund sten”. Ett passande namn p\u00e5 en \u00f6 som best\u00e5r av just detta. Ett enda stort klapperstensf\u00e4lt av runda stenar \u00e4r ju hela \u00f6n. En atollformad \u00f6 som reste sig ur havet med hj\u00e4lp av landh\u00f6jningen f\u00f6r bara 1500 \u00e5r sedan. Karg, k\u00e4rv, l\u00e4ngst ut i […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":71165,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8],"tags":[5366,842],"class_list":["post-71134","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-sverige","tag-norrbotten","tag-norrland"],"yoast_head":"\nVi bes\u00f6ker Mal\u00f6ren och utbrister: "Vad ska man med Medelhavet till?"<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Mal\u00f6ren ska tydligen betyda "rund sten". Ett passande namn p\u00e5 en \u00f6 som best\u00e5r av just detta. 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