{"id":82855,"date":"2025-11-11T06:00:00","date_gmt":"2025-11-11T05:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/4000mil.se\/?p=82855"},"modified":"2025-11-12T21:12:58","modified_gmt":"2025-11-12T20:12:58","slug":"en-natt-under-stjarnorna-i-oman","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/4000mil.se\/index.php\/en-natt-under-stjarnorna-i-oman\/","title":{"rendered":"En natt under stj\u00e4rnorna i Oman"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Vi har l\u00e4mnat Omans huvudstad Muscat bakom oss. Begett oss upp mot bergen. Bergen som finns \u00f6verallt i landet, till och med inspr\u00e4ngda mellan husen, kvarteren, stadsdelarna i Muscat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Google Maps visar p\u00e5 h\u00f6ger. Avfart fr\u00e5n stora, breda, trygga, asfalterade v\u00e4gen. In p\u00e5 n\u00e5gon form av skapelse gjort av spr\u00e4ngsten. Brant uppf\u00f6r, vi \u00e4r glada att vi har en Toyota Landcruiser, 4-hjuldrift och grejer. \u00c4rligt talat \u00e4r vi glada att vi har en chauff\u00f6r ocks\u00e5. Inte hyrt bil och gett oss ut p\u00e5 egen hand, f\u00f6r Christofers svindel g\u00f6r sig dessv\u00e4rre inte alls i dessa omgivningar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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V\u00e5r chauff\u00f6r har heller aldrig varit h\u00e4r. \u00c5kt just hit. Han som g\u00f6r turer upp i bergen med g\u00e4ster varje vecka. F\u00f6r Wajmah<\/a>, som vi \u00e4r p\u00e5 v\u00e4g till, \u00e4r ett helt nytt hotell. Bara 24 b\u00e4ddar. Som uppst\u00e5tt n\u00e4r en gammal \u00f6vergiven by h\u00e4r uppe i bergen som \u00f6vergetts av byborna, renoverats upp p\u00e5 nytt och f\u00e5tt liv igen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bilens motor rusar, d\u00e4cken slirar mot det svarta berget, men vi tar oss upp f\u00f6r den orimligt branta v\u00e4gen bit f\u00f6r bit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Solen st\u00e5r l\u00e5gt, men n\u00e5r \u00e4nnu \u00f6ver bergskammen. Ner p\u00e5 oss. Och p\u00e5 dalen under oss. D\u00e4ruppe vid den \u00f6vergivna byn tar v\u00e4gen slut. Killarna fr\u00e5n guesthouset sluter upp runt om oss. Lokala krafter fr\u00e5n byn nere i dalen. Den som lever och frodas. V\u00e5ra resv\u00e4skor sl\u00e4ngs smidigt och vant upp p\u00e5 starka axlar och b\u00e4rs iv\u00e4g.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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F\u00f6r det tar ju inte slut h\u00e4r. L\u00e4ngs en vindlande stenlagd stig forts\u00e4tter f\u00e4rden l\u00e4ngs bergssidan innan vi \u00e4r framme i andra sidan av byn. Den renoverade delen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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H\u00e4r har Rasa och Kristoffer, fr\u00e5n Polen respektive Litauern, satsat f\u00f6r framtiden. Slagit rot, renoverat den \u00f6vergivna byn, lett om regnvatten, f\u00e5tt liv i de gamla uttorkade odlingsterrasserna igen. Nu fyllda av banantr\u00e4d, hibiskus och dadlar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Allt \u00e4r noga planerat och utt\u00e4nkt. Allt vatten anv\u00e4nds flera g\u00e5nger. Det vatten g\u00e4sterna duschar i, blir sedan till spolvatten i toaletten och bevattning i tr\u00e4dg\u00e5rden.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Husen kl\u00e4ttar p\u00e5 bergssidorna. V\u00e5rt rum har ett privat hottub och en egen takterrass. H\u00e4r uppe p\u00e5 takterrassen blir vi kvar, f\u00f6r nu kommer solnedg\u00e5ngen. Solen g\u00e5r ner bakom bergen bakom oss medan vi sitter p\u00e5 terrassen, delar p\u00e5 en kanna te och ser f\u00e4rgerna i de motst\u00e5ende bergen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Sedan serveras en middag p\u00e5 den gemensamma uteplatsen. Sallader och en lokalt inspirerad gryta med kyckling och ris, limejuice och karak-te.
Den libanesiske kocken har egentligen inte anl\u00e4nt \u00e4nnu, n\u00e5gon form av visum-problem uppeh\u00e5ller honom, s\u00e5 Rasa f\u00e5r h\u00e5lla st\u00e4llningarna i k\u00f6ket sj\u00e4lv \u00e4nnu s\u00e5 l\u00e4nge.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Natten \u00e4r ljum, varmare \u00e4n vi befarat s\u00e5 h\u00e4r uppe i bergen. Och vi v\u00e4ljer att h\u00e4mta upp t\u00e4ckena upp p\u00e5 v\u00e5r takterrass. Kan inte slita oss. Stj\u00e4rnorna blinkar mot oss genom vinrankorna i pergolan, medan vi l\u00e5ngsamt slumrar in. Vaknar f\u00f6re gryningen av att bergen l\u00e5ngsamt tr\u00e4der fram i rosa lager. Snart v\u00e4rmer solen och det \u00e4r dags att stiga upp till en lyxig frukost med frukt, pannkakor med dadelsirap och omanskt br\u00f6d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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F\u00f6r oss forts\u00e4tter \u00e4ventyret vidare, h\u00f6gre upp i bergen i Jebel Shams, men vi hade s\u00e5 g\u00e4rna stannat. Vilat i skuggan av dadelpalmen, gosat med \u00e5snan och hennes f\u00f6l. F\u00f6ljt en av de m\u00e5nga vandringslederna h\u00e4r, l\u00e4ngs dess vindlande f\u00e4rd \u00f6ver bergen bakom oss. K\u00e4nt historiens kraft i byn vi bosatt oss i.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Kolla in v\u00e5r reel fr\u00e5n detta st\u00e4lle h\u00e4r. <\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

L\u00e4s ocks\u00e5:<\/strong> P\u00e5 v\u00e4g till Oman \u2013 och ett m\u00f6te med Nordmakedonien<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Missa inga inl\u00e4gg. Gl\u00f6m inte att\u00a0f\u00f6lja 4000mil p\u00e5 Facebook<\/a>\u00a0och\u00a0p\u00e5 Instagram<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Vi har l\u00e4mnat Omans huvudstad Muscat bakom oss. Begett oss upp mot bergen. Bergen som finns \u00f6verallt i landet, till och med inspr\u00e4ngda mellan husen, kvarteren, stadsdelarna i Muscat. Google Maps visar p\u00e5 h\u00f6ger. Avfart fr\u00e5n stora, breda, trygga, asfalterade v\u00e4gen. In p\u00e5 n\u00e5gon form av skapelse gjort av spr\u00e4ngsten. […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":82901,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[219,12765],"tags":[364],"class_list":["post-82855","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-hotel-varda-en-omvag","category-oman","tag-hotell"],"yoast_head":"\nEn natt under stj\u00e4rnorna i Oman<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Vi har l\u00e4mnat Omans huvudstad Muscat bakom oss. Begett oss upp mot bergen. 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