{"id":86068,"date":"2026-03-31T06:00:00","date_gmt":"2026-03-31T04:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/4000mil.se\/?p=86068"},"modified":"2026-04-06T08:37:19","modified_gmt":"2026-04-06T06:37:19","slug":"vad-gor-man-i-belgrad-nar-det-regnar","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/4000mil.se\/index.php\/vad-gor-man-i-belgrad-nar-det-regnar\/","title":{"rendered":"Vad g\u00f6r man i Belgrad n\u00e4r det regnar?"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Jag har ju redan ber\u00e4ttat flera g\u00e5nger nu<\/a>, att jag passade p\u00e5 att stanna tv\u00e5 dygn extra i Belgrad p\u00e5 v\u00e4gen hem fr\u00e5n Nordmakedonien. Eftersom jag \u00e4nd\u00e5 hade byte h\u00e4r p\u00e5 hemv\u00e4g.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jag satt d\u00e4r f\u00f6r n\u00e5gra veckor sedan och v\u00e4gde f\u00f6rdelar mot nackdelar, skulle jag ut\u00f6ka resan eller inte? \u00c5 ena sidan, jag \u00e4lskar ju att resa och se nya platser. \u00c5 andra sidan, jag vet ju att pressresor kan vara r\u00e4tt utmattande. P\u00e5 ett positivt s\u00e4tt f\u00f6rst\u00e5s, men \u00e4nd\u00e5. Plus d\u00e5 att jag och Christofer redan som det var skulle komma att \u00e5ka om varandra egentligen hela mars. Han med jobbresor och jag med massor av privata resor. Eller i form av reseskribent. Om nu det \u00e4r privat eller professionellt vid det h\u00e4r laget?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Vad<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Det som f\u00e4llde avg\u00f6rande var nog faktiskt det h\u00e4r med att jag r\u00e4knar l\u00e4nder<\/a>. F\u00f6r Serbien var ju nu alldeles ensamt kvar d\u00e4r nere p\u00e5 Balkan, som enda land aldrig bes\u00f6kt av mig. Och n\u00e4r skulle n\u00e4sta tillf\u00e4lle bli liksom? Och n\u00e4r man \u00e4nd\u00e5 \u00e4r d\u00e4r i form av en transfer?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

V\u00e4l p\u00e5 plats i Nordmakedonien har vi ett h\u00e4rligt v\u00e5rv\u00e4der. Sol och ljumma vindar dagtid. \u00c4ven om kv\u00e4llarna \u00e4nnu \u00e4r kylslagna. Men s\u00e5 kommer omslaget. P\u00e5 v\u00e4g till flygplatsen i Skopje kommer regnet. Prognosen fram\u00e5t i Belgrad \u00e4r bister. Regn och kyla hela helgen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

L\u00e4ge att v\u00e4dernoja? Ja det borde det ju vara f\u00f6r en rutinerad v\u00e4dernojare som jag. Det brukar annars vara n\u00e5got av min paradgren. Men nej, faktiskt inte denna g\u00e5ng.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jag g\u00e5r in i ov\u00e4dret med ett rent of\u00f6rsk\u00e4mt lugn. Det f\u00e5r bli det som det blir i Belgrad. Och det finns ju saker att g\u00f6ra inomhus ocks\u00e5.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Vad<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Fredag – jag anl\u00e4nder<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Jag har bokat flygplatstransfer via Booking.com. En \u00e4ldre man med privatbil h\u00e4mtar mig p\u00e5 flygplatsen. Han talar bra engelska och vi pratar p\u00e5 under f\u00e4rden.
– Du skulle ha kommit i maj, s\u00e4ger han, d\u00e5 \u00e4r det lummigt och uteserveringarna \u00e4r \u00f6ppna. Vi har m\u00e5nga utomhuskonserter p\u00e5 somrarna ocks\u00e5. Han r\u00e4knar upp k\u00e4nda namn. Eros Ramazzotti, Rod Steward, med flera.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Vad<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

– Har du bokat transfer tillbaka? Undrar han diskret. Nej det har jag ju inte.
– Samma pris? Fr\u00e5gar jag.
– Ja, jag tar det f\u00f6rst\u00e5s via Booking d\u00e5 ocks\u00e5, bedyrar han.
Jag orkar inte f\u00f6rklara att jag fattar att han tar pengarna sj\u00e4lv, men att det \u00e4r helt okej f\u00f6r mig. Att jag ju mycket hellre ser mina 30 Euro i hans fickor \u00e4n i Bookings. Jag tackar bara ja till hans erbjudande och pris.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jag \u00e4r dyngtr\u00f6tt efter dagarna p\u00e5 pressresan. Fullt program fr\u00e5n 8:00 till 22:00 varje dag. Tusen upplevelser. God mat och frikostigt med dryck. Samt n\u00e5gon form av efterfest i grannrummet i Skopje natten innan. Jag sov v\u00e4l 4 timmar, trots \u00f6ronproppar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Vad<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Det k\u00e4nns sk\u00f6nt att inta s\u00e4ngel\u00e4ge p\u00e5 Hotel Moskva<\/a>, trots att klockan inte \u00e4r mer \u00e4n 18. Se de sista avsnitten av Love is Blind, medan Belgrads trafikanter uppr\u00f6rt tutar p\u00e5 varandra p\u00e5 gatan utanf\u00f6r och pianomusiken fr\u00e5n baren i foajen letar sig upp genom hotellets trappa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

10 timmar i str\u00e4ck sover jag. Som ett barn. Och det \u00e4r gudomligt. \u00c4r det s\u00e5 jag kommer att minnas Belgrad f\u00f6r alltid sen? Som staden d\u00e4r jag sov som jag aldrig gjort f\u00f6rut?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Vaknar p\u00e5 Hotel Moskva<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Hur beskriver jag Hotel Moskva<\/a>? En centraleuropeisk gammal p\u00e4rla med en tydlig doft av svunna tider. H\u00f6g svansf\u00f6ring och mycket k\u00e4nsla. Fast \u00e4nd\u00e5 lite av Grand Old Budapest Hotel<\/em> \u00f6ver det hela. Niv\u00e5n n\u00e5r inte riktigt upp till svansf\u00f6ringen med v\u00e4steuropeiska m\u00e5tt \u00e4nd\u00e5? Fast servicen och personalen \u00e4r fantastisk. Det m\u00e5ste man ge dem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Frukostbuff\u00e9n \u00e4r gener\u00f6s. Livemusik fr\u00e5n flygeln. Ett glas bubbel f\u00f6r den hugade. Sj\u00e4lv offrar jag mig f\u00f6r fotot. Annars skulle jag ju aldrig…?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Vad<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Museum of the Nineties<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Regnet skvalar envist utanf\u00f6r. Jag tar mitt paraply och beger mig till ett museum som jag sett ut i f\u00f6rv\u00e4g, Museum of the Nineties<\/em>. Det handlar om 90-talet och om Balkankriget.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

N\u00e4r jag anl\u00e4nder \u00e4r jag den enda bes\u00f6karen. Tv\u00e5 kvinnor tar emot och ber\u00e4ttar ivrigt. Detta museum har en ambition att ge ett mer nyanserat perspektiv. Inte som gemene man i Serbien skylla kriget p\u00e5 ”alla de andra folkslagen”.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Det \u00e4r bra t\u00e4nker jag, och beger mig ut i museet som \u00e4r byggt i form av en labyrint.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jugoslavien h\u00f6lls l\u00e4nge ihop av Tito. Efter Titos d\u00f6d f\u00f6rsvagades centralmakten, och under slutet av 1980-talet v\u00e4xte Milo\u0161evi\u0107 fram som en dominerande politisk ledare i Serbien. N\u00e4r \u00f6stblocket f\u00f6ll och de demokratiska vindarna svepte in \u00f6ver Jugoslavien, var det vissa personer med n\u00e4ra kopplingar till makten som f\u00f6rs\u00e5g sig ekonomiskt. Oligarker kallas de i Ryssland, Tycoons sa man h\u00e4r.
Allt medan vanligt folk fick det s\u00e4mre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Vad
F\u00f6rgyllda toaletter blev en symbol f\u00f6r Tycoons<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

De \u00f6vriga folkslagen ville nu ha sj\u00e4lvst\u00e4ndighet fr\u00e5n Jugoslavien. Demonstrerade, gjorde uppror. Som slog ner av makten.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

D\u00e4r n\u00e5gonstans tog kriget sin b\u00f6rjan, \u00e4r min tolkning efter alla mina turer i Balkan, och \u00e4ven fr\u00e5n detta museum.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

– Vad tycker du? Fr\u00e5gar kvinnorna n\u00e4r jag \u00e4r klar.
– Jag tycker att alla ni nationaliteter p\u00e5 Balkan m\u00e5ste sluta se er sj\u00e4lva som b\u00e4ttre \u00e4n era grannar. Att just ni har r\u00e4tt och alla andra fel. Alla \u00e4r vi bara m\u00e4nniskor varken mer eller mindre. Om ni inte slutar med detta kommer ni att hamna i krig med varandra igen inom 50 \u00e5r!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jag vet inte om kvinnorna h\u00e5ller med mig. Men jag fick \u00e5tminstone s\u00e4ga det som v\u00e4xt i mig s\u00e5 l\u00e4nge nu, under alla mina resor p\u00e5 Balkan.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Vad
”K\u00e4rleken kommer att r\u00e4dda oss”<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Sveti Marco<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Runt h\u00f6rnet finns en serbisk-ortodox kyrka. Jag g\u00e5r in en sv\u00e4ng, den \u00e4r vacker och rofylld. Utanf\u00f6r st\u00e5r en sp\u00e5rvagn, s\u00e5 ur\u00e5ldrig att jag f\u00f6rst t\u00e4nker att det \u00e4r en museivagn. Men nej, det k\u00f6r linje 6.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Vad<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

G\u00e5gatan i Gamla stan<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Nu \u00e4r det h\u00f6g tid att g\u00f6ra g\u00e5gatan i Gamla stan<\/em>. Den d\u00e4r gatan ni vet som finns i alla st\u00e4der. D\u00e4r kedjorna ligger p\u00e5 rad, H&M ocks\u00e5. Gallerior, lokala butiker. Belgrad har hela tre bokhandlar p\u00e5 denna gata. Inte s\u00e5 illa \u00e4nd\u00e5.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Vad<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Fortet<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

G\u00e5gatan slutar i fortet. Det som ligger p\u00e5 en kulle d\u00e4r Donau <\/em>m\u00f6ter Sava<\/em>. H\u00e4r promenerar de lokala flan\u00f6rerna och turisterna tillsammans. Gatuf\u00f6rs\u00e4ljare s\u00e4ljer uniformsm\u00f6ssor fr\u00e5n kommunisttiden. P\u00e5 90-talet var det \u00e4kta vara, men knappast nu va?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Strumpor med Putin p\u00e5 \u00e4r annars stors\u00e4ljaren.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Vad<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Vad
Var det verkligen ett Europa fyllt av vapen, misstro och hat vi dr\u00f6mde om?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Spa<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Tillbaka till hotellet. F\u00f6r jag har bokat rum med tillg\u00e5ng till spa och vill ha valuta f\u00f6r pengarna. Spaet \u00e4r litet, men helt tomt s\u00e5 n\u00e4r som p\u00e5 mig. Jag bubblar, och bastar p\u00e5 i godan ro. F\u00e5r upp v\u00e4rmen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Fika<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Sedan \u00e4r det h\u00f6g tid att utnyttja fler av hotellets faciliteter. Hotellbaren h\u00e4r \u00e4r extremt popul\u00e4r. Fullsatt hela dagen och kv\u00e4llen. Men jag lyckas hugga ett bord, tar in en bakelse och bubbel. Har med datorn och skriver om mina 80 l\u00e4nder<\/a>. Pianisten spelar of\u00f6rtrutet p\u00e5. De m\u00e5ste v\u00e4l vara flera som byts av?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mitt bord har plats f\u00f6r fyra. Pl\u00f6tsligt kommer ett amerikanskt par och bara s\u00e4tter sig hos mig. Har aldrig varit med om det f\u00f6rut. Att man inte fr\u00e5gar f\u00f6rst. Det h\u00f6r v\u00e4l till normal artighet? Jag sitter kvar tills de g\u00e5tt. Bara f\u00f6r att.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Vad
Vad g\u00f6r man i Belgrad n\u00e4r det regnar? Fikar f\u00f6rst\u00e5s!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Dogma Brewery<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Middagen blir p\u00e5 Dogma Brewery<\/em> n\u00e5gra minuter bort. De har tyv\u00e4rr inga provningsbrickor, s\u00e5 det blir en IPA, som enligt min servit\u00f6r utsetts till Serbiens b\u00e4sta 2 \u00e5r i rad, plus en burgare.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sedan \u00e4r jag n\u00f6jd. Det blir Love & Death<\/em> i s\u00e4ngen resten av kv\u00e4llen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Vad jag vet om Belgrad nu<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Blev jag n\u00e5got klokare d\u00e5? P\u00e5 Belgrad d\u00e4r i regnet? Kanske det, det jag l\u00e4rt mig om Belgrad som jag inte visste innan, \u00e4r att lokaltrafiken \u00e4r gratis, att r\u00f6dljusen \u00e4r r\u00f6da v\u00e4ldigt, v\u00e4ldigt l\u00e4nge h\u00e4r. Att alla pratar bra engelska. Fr\u00e5n min chauff\u00f6r till damen p\u00e5 apoteket jag bes\u00f6kte. Att det bara \u00e4r 37 mil till Budapest. Och att k\u00e4nslan h\u00e4r \u00e4r lika mycket Centraleuropa som Balkan. Ett slags mellanting.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Och med det f\u00e5r man l\u00e5ta sig n\u00f6ja. F\u00f6r jag kommer ju tillbaka, det har jag lovat min chauff\u00f6r.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
H\u00e4r kommer hon. Donau.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Vad<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Missa inga inl\u00e4gg. Gl\u00f6m inte att f\u00f6lja 4000mil p\u00e5 Facebook<\/a> och p\u00e5 Instagram<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Jag har ju redan ber\u00e4ttat flera g\u00e5nger nu, att jag passade p\u00e5 att stanna tv\u00e5 dygn extra i Belgrad p\u00e5 v\u00e4gen hem fr\u00e5n Nordmakedonien. Eftersom jag \u00e4nd\u00e5 hade byte h\u00e4r p\u00e5 hemv\u00e4g. Jag satt d\u00e4r f\u00f6r n\u00e5gra veckor sedan och v\u00e4gde f\u00f6rdelar mot nackdelar, skulle jag ut\u00f6ka resan eller inte? […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":86118,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[12772],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-86068","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-serbien"],"yoast_head":"\nVad g\u00f6r man i Belgrad n\u00e4r det regnar?<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Vad g\u00f6r man i Belgrad n\u00e4r det regnar? 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